Boat Engine Maintenance 101: Cooling System

Most systemic problems with boat engines can be traced back to a neglect of the cooling system. The cooling system in your boat will function much differently from the one in your car, so it’s important to be familiar with the discrepancies. Regardless of what type of cooling system you have, the water you’re floating in will be used to regulate the temperature of the engine, which means that all of the debris, algae and gunk in the water will now be pulsating through your boat.

The first way to prevent damage to the cooling system is to inspect, clean and replace the filters on the water intakes regularly. This will help you catch any large debris from the water that would otherwise be sucked through the system. If you are boating in salt water frequently, gasket failure will be your chief concern. When you see any signs of rusting or corrosion here, immediately switch out the parts and work to remove any deposits. In addition, changing your outboard motor oil regularly will help rid the system of deposits and keep the engine temperature in an acceptable range.

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Motor Oil: How Long Will It Last?

Many people buy their Evinrude XD 100 oil in bulk in order to save a little money. But oil, like all liquid lubricants, will go bad over time. However, the way you store your oil can significantly prolong its shelf life. Be sure that the oil is stored in a dry area which isn’t subject to severe temperature changes. The oil will also last longer if it remains sealed and unopened.

Most oils will last four to five years on the shelf, but you have to remember that technology is constantly improving. What was state-of-the-art oil five years ago may be obsolete today. Simple oils will have a longer shelf life than more complex formulas. For example, base and process oils will last at least three years while metal cutting oils will only be good for about one.

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Winterizing Your ATV: Part Four

Yesterday we discussed the importance of using premium synthetic oil in your ATV, but we neglected to say what to look for. The criteria for a premium ATV oil is much the same as outboard motor oil; in cold weather conditions the pour point is the most critical variable, which tells you the lowest temperature at which the oil will be effective. Once you have filled your engine with top-tier oil, it’s time to check out the battery.

Particularly if you are just taking the machine out of storage, it’s a good idea to check the battery to ensure the charge is adequate. You may need to attach the unit to a charger if it is low, but be sure to make sure it holds the charge before your head out. The fuel tank has a tendency to collect condensation in cold weather, which then has the potential to freeze, so be sure to keep the tank as full as possible at all times.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part Three

After you’ve flushed the system, use a pickup hose to pump some antifreeze through the manifold. This will require you to gain access to the engine room, and while you’re there you’ll want to change the transmission fluid as well. Take out each of the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil into each cylinder. Finally, wipe down the entire engine with some fogging oil, WD-40 or other lubricant.

Stern drives have a tendency to pick up barnacles and aquatic flora during the season, so you’ll want to remove any of these growths from the lower unit. Drain all of the fluid from the gear case and be sure there isn’t any excess moisture in the two cycle oil, which is an indication that your seals are leaking. Thoroughly clean the lower unit with soap and water, apply grease to the system and check all of the necessary fuel levels.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part Two

The first step when preparing your boat for the frigid winter months is to find a suitable storage area. While leaving your boat in the water is an option, it isn’t advisable; the water will cause unnecessary wear and corrosion to the prop and the hull. The ideal location is in a covered, climate-controlled area. If you have extra space in your garage, you’re in luck; otherwise, you’ll want to invest in a storage space.

As with all maintenance, each manufacturer has their own specifications, so you’ll want to consult your owner’s manual to make sure you abide by their guidelines. For outboard engine owners, you’ll want to run the engine to warm it up and then change the Evinrude XD100 oil prior to putting the vessel in storage. This is also a good time to change the oil filters and flush the system with water. Whether you have a two- or a four-stroke, you’ll want to get rid of all of the excess fuel prior to storage, as it will go bad if it just sits in the tank for months.

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Boat Ownership: Part Four

Every boat—at least the ones manufactured after 1972—comes with a distinct Hull Identification Number (HIN) which is etched onto the transom. The HIN, which is a series of 12 letters and numbers, gives your boat a unique identity that can be used in the event of theft or a manufacturer recall. Many states require a registration number, which is not the same the State Registration number.

The HIN format changed in 1984, so we’ll cover the most up-to-date criteria. The first three characters specify the manufacturer; the next five are the hull serial number; followed by the date of certification; and the final two numbers are the model year. It’s important to keep your HIN in a safe location so you have it in the event of an emergency. You should always have emergency products and information like life jackets and extra outboard motor oil.

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The History of Synthetic Oil

Yesterday we discussed why using premium oil is so important for boaters, but what I failed to mention was that most premium bulk oil on the market today is synthetic. And while we may think that synthetics are relatively new, their origins date back many decades. During the 1930s and 1940s, Dr. Hermann Zorn began to research new engine lubricant which wouldn’t coagulate or become sticky like the oils of his day. His research led him to the conclusion that esters held the answer. At the same time as Zorn’s research, the US was in the process of synthesizing esters for use in oils.

Synthetic oils were first used in WWII by both Germany and the United States. It wasn’t until the 1960s however until Chevron released the first synthetic for commercial use. The quality of synthetics has continually improved, with new esters and methods constantly being utilized. Today, synthetic oils are the gold standard of the industry.

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How to Pull a Skier: Part Three

One way or another, the skier is eventually going to go down, and the proper steps must be taken to ensure their safety. As soon as the skier lets go of the towrope, immediately grab your safety flag—which should be stowed away with your extra outboard motor oil and other supplies. The flag alerts other boaters to the person in the water. Quickly circle back around and come back to the skier.

You should always pass the skier on the driver’s side of the vessel, which allows you to talk and keep them in constant eye contact. If the skier wants to go another round, bring the boat around to the right, which will draw the towrope up next to the skier. If, on the other hand, they’ve had enough, simply pull forward to give them access to the step. In our final installment tomorrow, we’ll cover some basic tips and precautions to ensure safe skiing.

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How to Choose Your Outboard Motor Oil

If you only take your boat out once in a blue moon, you probably don’t care too much about which types of motor oil you choose—and you probably wouldn’t have stumbled upon this blog post either. Avid boaters know the importance of choosing top tier outboard motor oil. But with literally dozens of choices on store shelves, how do you know which one is right for you?

The most important thing to look for is , which ensures the oil meets a set of rigorous standards set forth by the NMAA. Most manufacturers offer at least one oil that meets TC-W3 standards; the main difference across brands is the additives. Personally, I like to follow the logic that the manufacturer knows their engine best, so they should also be able to create the best oil for it. When it boils down to it though, as long as your oil is TC-W3 certified, you’re in the clear.

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Environmentally Safe Boating: Part Four

Fueling your boat is obviously one of the riskiest practices when it comes to petroleum spills in the water. Not only will spilling gasoline harm the wildlife and ecosystem, the corrosive nature of the fuel can cause serious damage to the hull of your boat as well. Although gas stations built on piers are easily accessible for boaters, the ramifications of a spill are exponentially worse than if you were refueling on dry land. So whenever possible, throw your boat on the trailer and make the trip down the street to your standard station.

Whenever you fill your boat, be sure to leave about 10 percent of the tank unfilled to allow for expansion and help prevent spills. There are multiple ways to determine when the tank is almost to capacity, including sounding sticks, listening to the filter pipe and, of course, taking note of the tank’s volume. Another one of the main ways boaters contaminate a body of water is by discharging outboard motor oil through the bilge pump; however, this should be an issue if you keep your engine well maintained. But just to be safe, it’s a good idea to place some oil absorbent materials in the bilge boom and underneath the engine.

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Boat Trailers and Launching: Part Five

Whenever you are towing your boat, no matter how short the journey, always be sure to bring along a spare tire. In my experience, trailers get flats far more often than cars. Also be sure to bring along a jack that has the capacity to lift your trailer and boat along with your extra outboard motor oil.  Once you successfully get the boat to the launch, the only thing left to do is get her in the water.

If you have never backed up a trailer before, I recommend practicing before you get to the ramp. Be sure to always keep the trailer in your sights and drive slowly while you are backing up. I could spend all of next week writing a series on how to back your trailer, but the fact of the matter is that the only way you learn is by doing it yourself. One tip, however: Don’t be afraid to pull forward and start again. It’s always easier to launch the boat when you are aligned properly.

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