2 Cycle Oil | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 4

Compare/Contrast: Two Cycle Oil and Motor Oil

Not all motor oil is created alike. In fact, different motor oil is required for different engines. Today we will look at the difference between two cycle oil and motor oil.

Two cycle oil, like the Yamalube 2 cycle oil you might currently use, is needed, not surprisingly, for two stroke engines. These particular engines do not have a lubrication system so two cycle oil is mixed with gasoline to lubricate the engine while the fuel is used. Motor oil is used in four stroke engines and is typically kept in a separate reservoir from the gasoline. For lubrication, an oil pump transfers the oil to the engine.

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NMMA Certification

The National Marine Manufacturers Association tests and certifies the products of manufacturers. The goal of the rigorous certification process is to set a high standard for quality and safety. Currently, the NMMA certifies a variety of TC-W3 oils, FC-W oils, and FC-W (CAT) oils.

In the mission statement on their website, NMMA states, “To help boaters recognize lubricants that will give the engine life designed-in by marine engine manufacturers, the National Marine Manufacturers Association has developed a program for the certification of these premium quality lubricants.” NMMA certification is two-fold. First the oil additive packages are certified and then there is a registration of oil brands that use certified oils. Amalie Oil is one such brand that is certified under their XCEL Outboard and 2-Cycle Oil.

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How 2 Cycle Oil Works

Two-cycle engines have different requirements than four-cycle engines found in cars and lawn tractors. Oil and regular unleaded gasoline is blended together to create an enriched mixture that does more than just fuel an engine. For instance, two-cycle oil lubricates the engine while providing fuel.

When the mixture moves into the crankcase it pushes the piston up, creating a spark. Then, the spark ignites the fuel which sends the piston downwards. Thus, the power behind the two-cycle engine is created. A typical ration of oil to gas is 40 parts gasoline to one part oil or 50 parts gasoline to one part oil. Yamalube 2 cycle oil comes highly recommended.

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The Two-Stroke Engine Cycle: Part One

Each cycle of any engine begins at the spark plug. Two-stroke engines derive their power from the fact that the spark plug fires once every rotation, as opposed to every other. When the spark plug fires, the mixture of fuel and air in the cylinder ignites to drive down the piston. As the piston moves downward, it compresses the mixture of air and fuel into the crankcase. The the piston creates pressure in the cylinder, pushing the gases out of the exhaust port.
 
The intake port is then covered as the piston reaches the bottom of the stroke. Because the mixture is pressurized in the crankcasae, it rushes into the cylinder. This displaces the excess gas and fills the cylinder with a new supply of fuel and Yamaha 2M oil. Now that this phase of the cycle is complete, tomorrow we’ll have the riveting conclusion: the compression stroke!

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Disadvantages of Two-Stroke Engines

After reading yesterday’s post, you may be wondering why two-stroke engines aren’t used in more applications; after all, they’re lighter, simpler, cheaper and more powerful than four-strokes. For starters, because two-stroke engines are light and powerful, the system takes more abuse and tends to wear out quickly, which isn’t good for machines like automobiles. In addition, the lubrication system in the two-stroke has been simplified so the gasoline and 2 stroke oil are held together. While this is convenient, it doesn’t provide dedicated lubrication to the engine.

The immense power output from two-stroke motors does come at the expense of efficiency. Not only do two-stroke engines burn through oil rapidly, the oil is also expensive in itself. To compound the issue, two-stroke engines also have poor fuel economy. And the burning of all that gasoline and oil means that two-stroke engines emit a surfeit of pollution. During the cycle, fuel and air leak out the combustion chamber as well, posing a particular threat for marine applications.

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Pre-Season Snow Mobile Maintenance: Part Two

While you are conducting the exterior inspection, thoroughly examine the skis and runners for any signs of wear or damage. The runners should be straight and there shouldn’t be any holes, nicks, gouges or scrapes. Now that we’ve examined the outside of the snowmobile, it’s time to bring out the tools and get under the hood.

Begin by greasing all of the fittings and removing any rust or buildup. It’s important to grease all of the fittings each year to ensure their integrity and longevity. Just as your Evinrude oil maintains the inner workings, the grease keeps the fittings in pristine condition. You should have drained any excess gasoline prior to putting the vehicle into storage; if you didn’t, now is the time to.

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Winterizing Your ATV: Part Three

Before exposing your ATV to the perils of winter weather, it’s necessary to take a few steps to ensure the machine operates properly. We’ll go over the basic procedures for all vehicles, but the exact process will vary depending on the make and model of your vehicle. To that end, it’s always advisable to consult your owner’s manual to ensure there aren’t any discrepancies.

The first thing to do is to install a carburetor heater. This will ensure that the mixture of gas, air and 2 stroke oil is always at an adequate temperature when it’s in the system. When you know the weather is going to be extremely cold, it’s crucial to switch to premium synthetic oil that is rated for the conditions. While you can get by with subpar oil in ideal conditions, it’s necessary to invest the extra money when the weather is bad.

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Winterizing Your ATV: Part One

Now that we’ve got the boat stowed away for the winter and have dealt with all of the necessary fuel and outboard motor oil chores, it’s time to start thinking about getting your winter vehicles out of storage. My family has an assortment of vehicles for soggy, cold conditions, but my favorite has to be our fleet of ATVs. Of course, you can’t simply take these vehicles out of storage and begin tackling the terrain immediately.

Just as you have to winterize a boat for storage, you also need to go through a winterization process before exposing ATVs to frigid climates. Over the next few days, we’ll be covering some of the basics of this winterization process to ensure your engine doesn’t seize up. We’ll also touch on some of the basic maintenance procedures that should be performed regularly, especially when starting up your machine for the first time since it’s been in storage.

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Boat Ownership: Part One

The decision to purchase a boat shouldn’t be taken lightly. Along with your home and automobile, it will undoubtedly be one of the biggest single purchases you ever make. And the initial investment in the boat is just the beginning; then there is insurance, licensing, gas, outboard motor oil and the routine upkeep to take care of.

Since there are so many factors to mull over, I thought we’d give a quick crash course on what to take into consideration when you are thinking about investing in your own vessel. Over the next couple of days, we’ll be covering everything from selecting your hull and motor type, to acquiring the proper licenses and certifications.

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The Anatomy of the Two-Stroke Engine: Part Three

Although the workings of the two-stroke engine are more basic than the four-stroke, they are by no means simplistic. The cycle begins when the spark plug fires, igniting the fuel, air and bulk oil that have been compressed in the cylinder. This explosion, also known as the combustion stroke, drives the piston downward, which compresses the rests of the gas, air, oil concoction in the crankcase.

At the bottom of the stroke, the exhaust port is uncovered, releasing the pressure of the exhaust gases. When the piston bottoms out, the port to the intake is covered. At this point, the mixture in the crankcase is pressurized, causing it to flow into the cylinder while at the same time extricating the exhaust gases. Tune in tomorrow for the thrilling conclusion of the two-stroke cycle.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Two

Immediately following every outing you should run through a short checklist to ensure your motor wasn’t damaged and will be ready for your next outing. The first line of business is to flush the engine. For this you’ll need a set of rabbit ears, which is a pair of rubber hoses connected by a metal clamp. The apparatus slips on to the lower unit where you can attach the garden hose.

When you’re flushing the engine, ensure that the water flowing through the system isn’t hot. If the water is hot or the flow is weak, it’s an indication that some debris is blocking the system. You can easily remove the blockage by inserting a small piece of wire into the flow tube. Once the engine has been flushed, spray down everything with some lubricant. Finish by topping off your tank with a mixture of fuel and Evinrude XD100.

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Is There a Difference Between Two- and Four-Stroke Oil?

Two-stroke engines are more powerful and compact than the four-stroke, which is why they are found on the back of so many boats. But some boats do have four-stroke engines. When you purchase outboard motor oil, you’ll notice that there is both two- and four-stroke oil, but is there really any difference?  As we all know, one of the biggest differences between the two types of motors is how you put oil in the system. In a two-stroke motor the gas and oil are mixed, while in a four-stroke the oil is contained in a separate compartment.

Two-stroke oil costs more, but is it really worth the extra money. The simple answer is yes. And the reason is that two-stroke motors are more susceptible to wear because of the immense amount of power they generate in half the movements. Two-stroke oils have higher ratings to ensure your engine gets the protection it need.

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