Snowmobile Maintenance III: Under the Hood

yamaha4We continue today with part three in an ongoing series dealing with snowmobile maintenance. With winter temperatures already established across many areas of the country, those powdery drifts of snow likely aren’t far behind. In order to keep your sled running with reliability and efficiency all season long, it’s best to perform a scrupulous preseason tune-up. Let’s go under the hood to check the integral inner workings of the sled.

By now you might have noticed a pattern inherent to these visual inspections, and the process of checking the drive belt is no exception: looks for cracks and other blatant signs of wear and tear. A belt is just one of several spare parts that an avid snowmobiler should keep on hand at all times. Next, find your throttle and oil cables, checking to see if they’ve been damaged in the offseason or have become frayed with use.

Perhaps most importantly, make sure that all fluid levels are correct, including coolant, brake fluid, chaincase oil and 2-cycle Yamaha oil. Checking chaincase oil can be rather tricky depending on the make and model of your sled, so be sure to consult the owner’s manual first. Don’t just take it for granted that your fluid levels are low and simply need to be topped off. In many cases, there’s a reason for dramatically reduced fuel levels – and it might be a costly, mechanical one.

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Getting the Boat Back Up and Running

boat

For as long as I can remember my parents have been avid boaters. Whether it is waterskiing, fishing or just taking a cruise around the lake, they can’t get enough of the water. In recent years they have both been bogged down with work, so our Bayliner has been neglected in a storage shed.

This summer we all finally had some free time and were able to take the boat out on one of the local lakes. Usually my dad is religious with the upkeep of Shirley-as he calls his boat-but after not being taken out for years, we had to do some quick maintenance before launching. My dad and I had to completely flush the engine, replace some rusted bolts, and fill it up with Evinrude XD50 oil.

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Snowmobile Tune-up II: Visual Inspection

gettingairToday we pick up right where we left off in our preseason snowmobile maintenance process: the visual inspection. Having checked for cracks in the hood, we now turn our attention to the upholstery. Seat covers may become nicked and scratched with use, and in some cases they might slip right off the mounting. These details might seem trivial or superficial, and it’s true that your snow machine can operate no matter the state of the seating. Now is a good time to shore up any aesthetic flaws, however. Try gluing a similar fabric underneath hole in the leather or synthetic seating.

Now it’s time to get a look at the underbody of your snowmobile – specifically, the track and the rear suspension. Check for bent or broken suspension parts and ensure that the sliders haven’t deteriorated. When inspecting the track, think about it the same way you would the tires on a car. The slightest sign of wear is more than enough evidence in favor of replacement. Driving with a worn track is basically tempting fate; you could end up walking several miles back to civilization through deep snow.

Tip the sled onto its side to get a glance at the skis and runners. Again, you simply have to check these parts for serious signs of wear. Steel skis should last you many years provided they aren’t bent or allowed to corrode. Plastic skis could be cut or otherwise impacted rather easily, so check them with added prejudice. If you haven’t already done so, top off the engine with Yamalube 2s oil. Tomorrow we’ll go under the hood!

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Preseason Snowmobile Maintenance, Part I

snowmobileNow that November’s icy chill has replaced any thoughts of summertime fun, many outdoors enthusiasts are putting their boats away for winter. We’ve discussed proper winterization techniques in the past, but now it’s time to focus on an equally invigorating recreational pastime: snowmobiling. No matter your preferred outdoor pursuit, it’s important to conduct a preseason checkup.

By ensuring that your sled is ready and equipped for snowmobile season, you can save yourself constant trips to the repair shop. Over the next few days, we’ll investigate the most common problems that afflict snowmobiles in the offseason and attempt to diagnose a solution. The first step might seem brutally obvious – your snow machine has probably been lurking in a far corner of the garage, so you’ll have to remove the sizable layer of dust that’s settled on top of it.

Either take your snowmobile to a local carwash or do the work yourself with a garden hose, a sponge and a bucket of sudsy water. Once it’s clean, you’re ready to begin inspecting the outer areas of the sled, beginning with the hood. Be on the lookout for any signs of serious wear or neglect – cracks in the outer body, deteriorating hood latches, decals peeling off, etc. In tomorrow’s update, we’ll continue with the visual inspection and eventually go under the hood to replenish the old supply of Yamaha 2s oil.

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Tune-Up V: Now Have Some Fun

outboard-motor

This past week, we’ve looked at virtually every facet of an annual outboard tune-up, from inspecting the propeller blades to scanning for oil leaks and replacing the fuel filter. In today’s final installment of our five-part series, we’ll finally get to enjoy the fruits of all that labor. In other words, it’s time to hit the water. After adding wax to the cowling in order to protect from corrosion, you’re all set to mount the outboard and take it to a lake or river.

Once the motor has been mounted, it’s time to start the engine. Unfortunately, there are a few more checks to be performed before we can use the boat for recreational endeavors with any confidence. We’ve already replenished the motor with fresh outboard oil, but we have not yet checked the water pump. The flow of water near the rear of the engine should give us a good idea that the pump is functioning properly.

Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes while it warms up. Adjust the carburetor jet and twiddle the fuel-mix knob at the front of the motor. It should begin to idle smoothly. Then put it into gear and take a quick spin. This maintenance procedure should keep your outboard motor running smoothly and trouble-free for the remainder of the season.

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Tune-Up IV: Find and Replace the Fuel Filter

boat-motor-oilToday we present the fourth in our five-part series on annual outboard motor tune-ups. With any luck, this will have given you a better idea of how to go about conducting this yearly routine. As always, it’s critical to follow the maintenance guidelines provided by the outboard manufacturer above all else. Now, let’s move on to the fuel filter. This unit separates fuel from water, in effect allowing the motor to run smoothly and efficiently.

It only stands to reason that before you can replace the filter, you must find it. Not all outboard motors are alike, but generally speaking you’ll find the fuel filter inside the cover at the engine end of the fuel pump. Any water or sediment you find built up within should be removed, then replace the filter with a new one. Next it’s time to turn our attention to the cowling on the engine.

Believe it or not, a thin coat of car wax on the cowling can help keep rust at bay and restore luster. Begin mixing fuel for your 2-stroke outboard according to the proportions recommended in your outboard manual. After combining fresh boat motor oil with fuel, you’re at last ready to drop that engine in the water. Mount it and set it up on the transom without much trimming.

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Tune-Up III: Replacing the Spark Plugs

marine-engine-oil1Before picking up where we left off yesterday – greasing a few of the moving parts of the throttle – let’s quickly review what’s been done so far. We began the annual full-scale outboard tune-up by looking closely at the propeller for serious signs of wear and tear. Next, we looked for visible leaks around the propeller’s base. We added new marine engine oil to the outboard and replaced old lubricant in the motor’s lower unit with new.

Now it’s on to the throttle control – a crucial part of the boat that is used to determine fuel flow and, in effect, the speed of the craft. Start twisting the hand throttle around, watching the motor all the while and making mental notes of the moving parts. These should then be lubricated with standard marine grease. As always, the motor manufacturer may have a special suggestion as to which brand to use.

You’re now ready to disengage the sparkplug wires. Take special care to memorize where they are located and how they are positioned – that way you’ll be able to replace them just as they were. Take an adjustable wrench to each sparkplug and substitute it out for a new one. Tighten the new plug with your hand, then secure it fully with the wrench. Be forewarned that if you should overtighten the plugs, damage to your cylinder head could result.

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It’s Outboard Motor Tune-up Time, Part II

ob_maint_1_-038

When we left off yesterday, we were right in the middle of a visual inspection of the outboard motor – the sort of examination that should be performed every time you undertake the annual tune-up process. Now that we’ve established that no fluids have obviously leaked from the motor to the ground, it’s time to take a close look at the propeller. Small cracks or nicks in the tip of the blades can decrease efficiency, as can misaligned or bent blades.

Again, I’d ask you to defer to your owner’s manual at this point. Seek out the seasonal tune-up recommendations and find out whether or not you should be changing lubricant in the motor’s lower unit. If recommended, remove the top and bottom fill plugs and watch carefully as the lubricant drains into a spare waste container. Just as you replaced your old motor oil with bulk oil, substitute in new lubricant.

The lubricant applicator’s nozzle should fit nicely in the bottom fill hole; squirt it into the gear case. Then, just as it starts to overflow and ooze out of the top fill hole, return the top plug to its accustomed place. Do the same with the bottom plug and wipe away any extraneous lubricant with a cloth. We’ll continue with necessary lubrication in tomorrow’s edition.

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It’s Outboard Motor Tune-up Time, Part I

evinrude-oil1In order to keep your marine motor running smoothly and efficiently, it’s essential to perform a full-scale tune up at least once a year. This guide to annual tune ups is not intended to be an absolute authority on how to do your maintenance work but rather as a series of suggestions. As previously discussed, each individual outboard comes with a specialized maintenance schedule courtesy of the manufacturer. Adhere to that schedule first and foremost.

Just as you would with your daily or weekly maintenance routine, begin this one with a visual inspection – and not just a simple once-over, either. By scoping out potential motor issues and stumbling blocks ahead of time, you ensure that repairs can be made in a timely manner. Turn the motor off before commencing the inspection. Then remove the cowling so that the power head is visible.

Scanning from the propeller upward, check the motor’s vicinity for signs of leakage. If your boat has been in storage for any significant period of time, it’s possible that a leak exists without any visual clues; for example, the leaking fluids may have drained out of the motor and evaporated over that extended time. Remember that a bit of oil around the propeller and on the side of the gear housing is normal. Anything more than that – e.g. a large, dark slick of Evinrude oil running down the propeller, it could be time to consult a professional mechanic.

We’ll continue our visual inspection and begin to get our hands dirty in the next installment.

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The Trouble with Fuel Additives

bulk-outboard-motor-oilSeveral decades ago, when Congress granted the Environmental Protection Agency increased powers to regulate America’s air and water pollution, outboard motor manufacturers were forced to take notice. Inefficient 2-stroke engines had been the norm up to that point, and it was agreed that the outboard companies would either have to drop 2-strokes from their product lines entirely or find a way to make them more eco-friendly.

As evidenced by the newer offerings from Mercury, Evinrude and Yamaha, motor companies found innovative ways to boost efficiency. While most of these attempts were successful, others were ill-advised. This was especially true of the additives that were suddenly being used to supplement marine and auto fuels. An additive called MTBE was thought to bolster octane rating and to burn more of the hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide in the exhaust.

Unfortunately, MTBE also turned out to be a serious contaminant that mixes easily with water and seeps into groundwater leaving pollution in its wake. The latest replacement additive for MTBE, ethanol, isn’t much better when considered in high concentrations. Its environmental impact is beneficial, but the substance mixes with water to create a sludge that can crack and clog outboard fuel systems. It just goes to show that motor companies and researchers have yet to find the perfect fuel additive blend. For now it’s best to stick with low-ethanol fuel and bulk outboard motor oil.

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Performing Pre-operational Checks

evinrude-oilIf you’re anything like me, your outboard-powered boat is your true pride and joy; it’s your portal to a quiet, early morning fishing session or to an adventure in uncharted waters. Since I don’t have much spare cash to spend on costly repairs and replacement parts, I make sure to put in the routine maintenance work when it really matters. If you take a few minutes to perform some checks before leaving the dock, you’ll thank yourself later.

Begin by systematically checking the fuel system. For starters, top off your gas tank and check the fuel lines for leaks. You’ll also need to poke around among the line connections to ensure they’re good and tight. Next, shift your attention to the oil level. Replenish your supply of Evinrude oil in the fuel tank. Yesterday we discussed the benefits and detriments of trimming your outboard; start with it in vertical position so it’s not tilted back or forward.

Last but not least, test out the steering controls. If you notice any sticking or looseness as you turn the wheel, it might be cause for concern. Likewise, the throttle and shifter should move with only slight resistance. Seek mechanical assistance if they catch or feel too mushy. Now that you’ve done the work, it’s time to have some fun out on the water.

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Basics of Outboard Trimming and Tilting

mercury-oil

Although not every outboard motor allows boaters the option of power trimming – also known as raising and lowering the drive unit – it’s a feature that’s widely available in most new outboards. “Trim” is maritime jargon used to refer to the running position of the engine drive unit. Think about the way your own outboard descends from the transom and into the water.

If a motor is neutrally trimmed, it will be positioned in an almost perfectly vertical manner; the bow will be lowered and the propeller shaft stays parallel to the water’s surface. As one might expect, operating a boat with neutral trimming is probably the most fuel-efficient technique as it streamlines the machinery’s progress through the water. “Trimming in” occurs when the top of the outboard is pointed slightly back and way from the stern. Again, this method lowers the bow but improves the ability to plane and ride through choppy seas.

The final option, “trimming out” actually lifts the bow and boosts the craft’s top speed considerably. When a motor is trimmed out excessively, the boat will begin to bounce. This technique is often employed in racing and for achieving quick bursts of speed during short-term trips. However, be prepared to replenish the engine with a supply of Mercury oil. Trimmed out boats are never as efficient as they could be.

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