Have You Winterized Your Boat?

mercury-engine-oilAs much as we might hate to admit it, most anglers are faced with an offseason that lasts at least several months. When spring comes around, we can start our love affair with the fishing boat all over again. Until then, it’s up to us to winterize and find other ways to pass the time – such as snowmobiling. But before you hop on that sled, let’s take some time to ensure that you’ve done all you can to winterize the boat effectively.

If possible, store your boat on land. This prevents the possibility of water seeping through the hull fittings or gate valves, freezing and expanding. Over the course of an entire winter, this can cause severe harm to the structure and cost you lots of money. Add anti-freeze to parts of the boat that are intended to contain water such as water tanks, septic holding tanks and toilets.

Drain the boat’s cooling system and add anti-freeze. Do so dipping the water intake into a bucket of anti-freeze and running the engine for a few minutes. The battery should be disconnected and stored on land. Drain the existing motor oil and replace it with Mercury engine oil. Drain and replace the transmission and outdrive oils and top off the tanks with a fuel stabilizer.

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Snowmobiles Explained: Safe Sledding

snowmobiling1Today we conclude our week-long look at snowmobiles. It all began Monday with an exploration of a typical sled’s drive system. From there, we compared and contrasted snowmobile tracks with those of a tank. Yesterday we posted some brief thoughts on the environmental impact of snowmobiling and the importance of replenishing two cycle oil. Now let’s head even further down the trail to discuss safety tips.

As is the case with any vehicle, you must familiarize yourself with the terrain before deciding to see how fast you can go. You wouldn’t drive 55 mph in a car down a narrow residential street for obvious reasons. Even if you’re riding a snowmobile in a secluded spot, the quality and condition of the snow will make a huge difference. Snowmobiles are set lower to the ground than motorcycles, which might lead you to believe that there’s less risk of injury. Bear in mind, however, that the open sled design creates a very real possibility of falling off.

The most critical pieces of safety equipment for a snowmobiler are the helmet, gloves and boots. Gloves and boots help keep the extremities safe from frostbite, which can nip away at fingers and toes to make precision steering a difficult task. When sledding in a populated area, snowmobilers must be familiar with conventional hand signals – they’re very similar to the ones used by bicyclists. For example, a right turn is signaled by sticking the left arm straight out to the left. A right turn is signaled by pointing a bent left arm upward.

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Snowmobiles Explained: Environmental Issues

snowmobile2In the past few days our discussion of snowmobiles has run the gamut from power systems to track mechanics and steering. Today, it’s time to take a step back from the nuts and bolts to see the forest for the trees. Just what are the environmental implications of recreational sleds, and what plans are in the works to increase engine efficiency? Unlike the environmental effects of automobiles and boats, those of snowmobiles remain understudied and to some extent uncertain.

The history of snowmobile engines reflects that of outboard motors in one key way. As recently as a few decades ago, both were being manufactured with little regard for their environmental impact. The amount and content of exhaust emitted by the engines was eventually deemed unacceptable, and the rise of four-stroke engines challenged two-stroke manufacturers like Yamaha to step up their game.

Today’s snowmobiles feature reduced emissions and increased engine efficiency. Where once speed and maneuverability were a sled’s main selling points, eco-friendliness has now joined the list. Modern-day snowmobiles run best on specially formulated 2 stroke oil. Snowmobile manufacturers continue to struggle with noise pollution concerns, however. Many sled makers have taken concerted steps to reduce noise levels.

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Snowmobiles Explained: Staying on Track

2-cycle-oilIn yesterday’s installment, we took a look at the four main components of a snowmobile’s drive system: the engine, clutch, track and skis. We’ll shift gears slightly today to focus on the track in particular and the steering system in general. The track is designed to maximize traction as the sled moves along the snow. It could be likened to that of a tank, with one major difference: tank tracks are stiff and durable above all other considerations because of the role they play in warfare. Snowmobile tracks, on the other hand, are meant for optimal swiftness and maneuverability.

It goes without saying that snowmobile tracks are more effective on snow than wheels would be, but why is this so? The answer comes down to a question of physics. By spreading out the point of contact with the snow to a larger surface area, tracks create plenty of traction. The treads on the track are rough enough to create friction and grab onto the snow at regular intervals.

Snowmobiles steer in much the same way as other vehicles with handlebars. However, the steering system brings up another major difference between tank tracks and sled tracks. Tanks are often given outfitted with double tracks, which are charged with steering. Snowmobiles come equipped with twin skis at the front of the sled. The width and spacing of the skis make a significant difference when steering. Narrow skis allow a snowmobile to take sharp turns. Tomorrow we’ll take a look at the improvements that have been made to 2 cycle oil formulations.

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Snowmobiles Explained: Powering the Sled

racing_snowmobileLast week we presented a four-part series on seasonal snowmobile maintenance – the kind of repair work that should be done even before the best powder begins to fall. This week, we’ll take it back to basics, explaining the ins and outs of the snowmobile from its drive system to its steering system, from environmental impact to safety tips. For those of you who already go snowmobiling on a regular basis in winter, this should prove a valuable refresher. For beginners, it aims to serve as a good informational starting point.

The sled’s drive system can be broken down into four essential parts: engine, clutch, track and skis. While some four-stroke engines are available in professional snowmobiles, lightweight models feature a powerful two-stroke. The engine links to the internal track drive, which in turn causes the tracks to rotate. In a way, snowmobile tracks are like those of a Sherman tank – except scaled down considerably, of course. Snowmobiles always benefit from a fresh supply of Yamalube oil.

The clutches are really a glorified pulley system that connects to the track drive and tightens the belt around the track. Most snowmobiles have a primary and secondary clutch. The secondary clutch comes into play once the sled has accelerated; it “shifts into another gear” once the wheels begin to turn and less effort is required on behalf of the motor. The skis are fastened at the front of the sled to provide stability. We’ll talk more about them in the entry on steering.

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Snowmobile Maintenance IV: Carburetor Cleaning

snowmobile1Over the last few days, we’ve discussed the ins and outs of a seasonal snowmobile tune-up – from salvaging the upholstery to checking for exterior scratches and ensuring proper fluid levels. In today’s final installment, we’ll shift over to one of the most common causes of engine failure: the filthy carburetor. It doesn’t take much more than regular hand tools, a can of carb cleaner, some ingenuity and a willingness to get your hands dirty.

For those who don’t already know, the carburetor is the device charged with mixing air and fuel in an internal combustion engine. Commence the cleaning process by crimping fuel lines to prevent any leakage while you work. Remove any throttle cables that might get in your way, as well as the fuel lines. Loosen and remove the carburetor, then inspect it for residue.

If residue is found to be blocking the two main jets in the main carb body, place the carburetor in a bath of car cleaner. It should then be blown dry and inspected once more. Reverse the procedure to reinstall the carburetor. That’s it! Before hitting the trail, it’s never a bad idea to top off your snowmobile with Yamalube 2s oil. Happy sledding, and remember to drive safe.

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Snowmobile Maintenance III: Under the Hood

yamaha4We continue today with part three in an ongoing series dealing with snowmobile maintenance. With winter temperatures already established across many areas of the country, those powdery drifts of snow likely aren’t far behind. In order to keep your sled running with reliability and efficiency all season long, it’s best to perform a scrupulous preseason tune-up. Let’s go under the hood to check the integral inner workings of the sled.

By now you might have noticed a pattern inherent to these visual inspections, and the process of checking the drive belt is no exception: looks for cracks and other blatant signs of wear and tear. A belt is just one of several spare parts that an avid snowmobiler should keep on hand at all times. Next, find your throttle and oil cables, checking to see if they’ve been damaged in the offseason or have become frayed with use.

Perhaps most importantly, make sure that all fluid levels are correct, including coolant, brake fluid, chaincase oil and 2-cycle Yamaha oil. Checking chaincase oil can be rather tricky depending on the make and model of your sled, so be sure to consult the owner’s manual first. Don’t just take it for granted that your fluid levels are low and simply need to be topped off. In many cases, there’s a reason for dramatically reduced fuel levels – and it might be a costly, mechanical one.

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Getting the Boat Back Up and Running

boat

For as long as I can remember my parents have been avid boaters. Whether it is waterskiing, fishing or just taking a cruise around the lake, they can’t get enough of the water. In recent years they have both been bogged down with work, so our Bayliner has been neglected in a storage shed.

This summer we all finally had some free time and were able to take the boat out on one of the local lakes. Usually my dad is religious with the upkeep of Shirley-as he calls his boat-but after not being taken out for years, we had to do some quick maintenance before launching. My dad and I had to completely flush the engine, replace some rusted bolts, and fill it up with Evinrude XD50 oil.

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Snowmobile Tune-up II: Visual Inspection

gettingairToday we pick up right where we left off in our preseason snowmobile maintenance process: the visual inspection. Having checked for cracks in the hood, we now turn our attention to the upholstery. Seat covers may become nicked and scratched with use, and in some cases they might slip right off the mounting. These details might seem trivial or superficial, and it’s true that your snow machine can operate no matter the state of the seating. Now is a good time to shore up any aesthetic flaws, however. Try gluing a similar fabric underneath hole in the leather or synthetic seating.

Now it’s time to get a look at the underbody of your snowmobile – specifically, the track and the rear suspension. Check for bent or broken suspension parts and ensure that the sliders haven’t deteriorated. When inspecting the track, think about it the same way you would the tires on a car. The slightest sign of wear is more than enough evidence in favor of replacement. Driving with a worn track is basically tempting fate; you could end up walking several miles back to civilization through deep snow.

Tip the sled onto its side to get a glance at the skis and runners. Again, you simply have to check these parts for serious signs of wear. Steel skis should last you many years provided they aren’t bent or allowed to corrode. Plastic skis could be cut or otherwise impacted rather easily, so check them with added prejudice. If you haven’t already done so, top off the engine with Yamalube 2s oil. Tomorrow we’ll go under the hood!

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Preseason Snowmobile Maintenance, Part I

snowmobileNow that November’s icy chill has replaced any thoughts of summertime fun, many outdoors enthusiasts are putting their boats away for winter. We’ve discussed proper winterization techniques in the past, but now it’s time to focus on an equally invigorating recreational pastime: snowmobiling. No matter your preferred outdoor pursuit, it’s important to conduct a preseason checkup.

By ensuring that your sled is ready and equipped for snowmobile season, you can save yourself constant trips to the repair shop. Over the next few days, we’ll investigate the most common problems that afflict snowmobiles in the offseason and attempt to diagnose a solution. The first step might seem brutally obvious – your snow machine has probably been lurking in a far corner of the garage, so you’ll have to remove the sizable layer of dust that’s settled on top of it.

Either take your snowmobile to a local carwash or do the work yourself with a garden hose, a sponge and a bucket of sudsy water. Once it’s clean, you’re ready to begin inspecting the outer areas of the sled, beginning with the hood. Be on the lookout for any signs of serious wear or neglect – cracks in the outer body, deteriorating hood latches, decals peeling off, etc. In tomorrow’s update, we’ll continue with the visual inspection and eventually go under the hood to replenish the old supply of Yamaha 2s oil.

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Tune-Up V: Now Have Some Fun

outboard-motor

This past week, we’ve looked at virtually every facet of an annual outboard tune-up, from inspecting the propeller blades to scanning for oil leaks and replacing the fuel filter. In today’s final installment of our five-part series, we’ll finally get to enjoy the fruits of all that labor. In other words, it’s time to hit the water. After adding wax to the cowling in order to protect from corrosion, you’re all set to mount the outboard and take it to a lake or river.

Once the motor has been mounted, it’s time to start the engine. Unfortunately, there are a few more checks to be performed before we can use the boat for recreational endeavors with any confidence. We’ve already replenished the motor with fresh outboard oil, but we have not yet checked the water pump. The flow of water near the rear of the engine should give us a good idea that the pump is functioning properly.

Allow the engine to idle for a few minutes while it warms up. Adjust the carburetor jet and twiddle the fuel-mix knob at the front of the motor. It should begin to idle smoothly. Then put it into gear and take a quick spin. This maintenance procedure should keep your outboard motor running smoothly and trouble-free for the remainder of the season.

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Tune-Up IV: Find and Replace the Fuel Filter

boat-motor-oilToday we present the fourth in our five-part series on annual outboard motor tune-ups. With any luck, this will have given you a better idea of how to go about conducting this yearly routine. As always, it’s critical to follow the maintenance guidelines provided by the outboard manufacturer above all else. Now, let’s move on to the fuel filter. This unit separates fuel from water, in effect allowing the motor to run smoothly and efficiently.

It only stands to reason that before you can replace the filter, you must find it. Not all outboard motors are alike, but generally speaking you’ll find the fuel filter inside the cover at the engine end of the fuel pump. Any water or sediment you find built up within should be removed, then replace the filter with a new one. Next it’s time to turn our attention to the cowling on the engine.

Believe it or not, a thin coat of car wax on the cowling can help keep rust at bay and restore luster. Begin mixing fuel for your 2-stroke outboard according to the proportions recommended in your outboard manual. After combining fresh boat motor oil with fuel, you’re at last ready to drop that engine in the water. Mount it and set it up on the transom without much trimming.

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