Basic Boat Trailering: Part Two

The first time you back your boat into the water it can certainly be daunting; I mean, it’s not everyday your supposed to back your vehicle towards a body of water. When you’re launching your boat, your trailer will obviously have to be submerged in the water. For some reason—unbeknownst to me—various trailer lights aren’t waterproof, which can lead to short-circuiting when they get wet. As such, always opt for the waterproof option.

If it’s your first time launching your boat (and even if you’ve done it hundreds of times), it’s a good idea to have someone get out and help guide you into the water. It doesn’t matter if the tires of the trailer get in the water, but you’ll want to avoid submerging the wheel hubs, which can lead to rust and corrosion. Once the boat can float, undo all of the ties and cables attaching it to the trailer and secure it to the dock. That probably seemed easy, so tomorrow we’ll go over the more difficult task: getting the boat back on the trailer.  Make sure you have all your essentials in the boat, life jackets, drinking water, cell phone and extra outboard motor oil.

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Basic Boat Trailering: Part One

Having a permanent docking location for your vessel is an enormous convenience, but most recreational boaters aren’t fortunate enough to have a spot in the water for their boat. Instead, we are forced to launch our boat every time we want to use it and allocate storage space for the watercraft and trailer on dry land. And while it may be wearisome to constantly have to pull your boat in and out of the water, trailiering your vessel does have its distinct advantages.

First, you don’t have to worry about other boaters’ negligence when docking, mooring or transporting supplies around the dock. Constant exposure to the water and the elements can corrode the exterior of your boat and the metal components, as well as the paint on the hull. When your boat is on the trailer, it’s also easier to change the Evinrude XD 100 and perform other routine maintenance. Over the next few days we’ll cover some of the basic procedures for launching and , including some tips to preserve your craft while it’s in storage.

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How to Change Outboard Motor Oil

While the two-stroke engine has fallen out of favor, it does boast one distinct advantage over its four-stroke successor: you don’t have to change the outboard motor oil. Sure, you have to mix the oil with gasoline consistently, but changing your oil can be a hassle. And if you neglect to do it, you can cause serious damage to your engine. You don’t have to worry if you have a four-stroke, however; changing your outboard motor oil is simple:

~Take the boat out of the water and put it on a trailer
~Remove the engine cover
~Check the oil using the dipstick in the crankcase
~Use the trim button to raise the motor, allowing the oil to drain out from the crankcase easily
~Drain the oil into an empty container. Take out the drain plug to allow all the oil to draw off.
~Replace the drain plug and refill the oil until it reaches the full level

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Three

If you have adequate water flow into the strainer and can’t find any obstruction, chances are the problem is something more serious. Unfasten the clamps and remove the hose going into the water pump. Look in the seacock to ensure proper water flow: if water isn’t flowing, it’s an indication that you have a clog somewhere in the hose; if not, you’ll have to dig deeper.

Remove the face from the water pump and inspect the impeller; the fins should be pliable and not show any signs of wear. In addition to extra fuel and Evinrude XD50 oil, you should carry a spare set of fins with you in just in case this scenario occurs. If your fins are in good shape, all signs point to a broken water pump. This is obviously the worst-case scenario, but all is not lost. To get back to shore, remove one of the other electric pumps from the system and use it to connect the raw water intake to the cooling system, effectively circumventing the intake pump.

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Two

If you see the temperature gauge rising, immediately turn the engine off and put up your warning flag for other boaters. Allow your boat to float freely for a few minutes; this will allow the engine to cool and let any debris that may be clogging the system to break free. While the engine is cooling down, open the hatch to the engine room, close the through-hull valve and inspect the strainer. If the strainer is clean, take a look in the through-hull valve to check for water flow into the strainer.

If you have no water flow your intake is clogged, which actually means you are in luck. Simply rid the obstruction from the system, put the strainer back in and you’re good to go. Of course, you will want to monitor the temperature gauge closely for the rest of the day. When you get back to the dock, thoroughly examine the engine to look for any extensive damage; I also recommend putting in some new Evinrude XD100 oil. Tomorrow will go over what to do if your engine problem is more than a simple clog.

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part One

Even if you perform routine maintenance and change your outboard motor oil piously, things will go wrong when you are on the water. And when they do, it’s crucial that you know what course of action to take. If you boat with any regularity, you will inevitably have to deal with an overheating engine at some point.

One of the most common causes of overheating engines is a clogged intake. Garbage and debris is becoming an increasing danger to engines, especially if you are boating close to the shoreline, but simple seaweeds and underwater foliage can be hazardous as well. If you check the intake and it’s clean, you may have a more serious problem on your hands. Tomorrow we’ll go over a detailed contingency plan for the exact modus operandi in the event of an overheating engine.

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Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Five

After you’ve inspected the fuel line, move on to the fuel primer bulb and fuel line fittings. Lastly, check the tank vent to ensure the unit is aspirating properly and there isn’t any water in the fuel. Turn off the engine and the battery, and open the engine cover to check for any leaking fuel or water.

Lubricate all of the moving parts—the carburetor valves, shift and throttle cables, etc. Assuming you have a two-stroke engine, you’re going to need to mix the fuel with outboard motor oil before you refill the tank. Always be sure to use premium certified oil, such as Evinrude XD 100 oil. Once you’re finished, throw the cover on the engine to keep it safe during storage and transportation.

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Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Four

If you find the water used to flush your engine is hot or has debris in it, the most common culprit is some grime stuck in the flow tube. Insert a small piece of wire into the flow tube to dislodge whatever is blocking the system. If this doesn’t work, more often than not it’s a serious problem with the water pump, and you’ll have to take the boat to your mechanic. Once you’ve successfully flushed the engine, it’s time to move on to the other systems.

Disconnect the fuel line so the engine has an opportunity to burn all of the gas and outboard motor oil in the carburetor. A quick caveat: Always use fresh fuel in your vessel, so if the gas has been sitting around for more than two months, get rid of it. In addition to burning the excess fuel in the carb, also be sure to check the fuel line for cracks and signs of wear. In our final installment tomorrow, we will finish checking the fuel systems and cover a few more steps you can take to preserve your boat.

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Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Three

Flushing your engine is one of the most basic and essential components of outboard motor maintenance and as such, every boat owner should be well acquainted with the practice. Aside from a basic garden hose and a water source, the only other tool you need is a set of “rabbit ears”—and not the kind you put on your TV. These rabbit ears consist of two rubber hoses and a metal clamp.

Slide the rabbit ears onto the lower unit where the water intake is and hookup the garden hose. Turn on the engine and the water pump will start to do its magic. Once you start everything up, examine the water pump to ensure a good flow of H20. The water coming out of the pump shouldn’t be hot nor have any debris in it. If this is the case, turn off the engine immediately. Tomorrow will go over how to fix the problem, as well as other routine maintenance like how to change your marine engine oil.

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Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Two

Before we delve into the maintenance procedures, I have a quick caveat: Unless you are a mechanic, have a professional tune-up periodically. It’s good to have a grasp of the basics like changing your Evinrude XD100, but an expert mechanic is sure to detect some problems before you do. Their routine should include a pressure test of the lower unit, testing of the spark plugs, seals and pump, and a comprehensive examination of the rest of the components. Trust me, it’s worth the time and money to nip these systemic problems in the bud.

One of the easiest ways to maintain the integrity of your engine is by flushing it after each outing. Admittedly, sometimes I cheat and go an outing or two in-between flushes—do as I say, not as I do. Salt water is particularly corrosive, so there are no exceptions here. Tomorrow we’ll go over some basic checks you can do for the 10-15 minutes while you are flushing your engine.

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Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part One

Now that the sun is shining and the days are long, taking time to care for your engine is probably not high on your priority list. And why should it bet; the summer is the time to go out and enjoy your vessel, not spend hours in the garage tuning your engine. However, if you neglect to care for your outboard motor, your time on the water could be fraught with disaster. Personally, I like to do my maintenance in the winter to maximize my boating time when the weather is fair.

From overheating and spent spark plugs to corrosion and rusting, a litany of mechanical problems can plague your motor. Luckily, preventing damage to your outboard motor is relatively simple and won’t take hours on end. You obviously want to change your outboard motor oil regularly, but this is only one of the necessary maintenance procedures. Over the next couple of days, we’ll overview a simple maintenance routine to help keep your engine up and running.

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Environmentally Safe Boating: Part Five

In the previous posts covering eco-friendly boating we have focused exclusively on spilling petroleum products, but this isn’t the only threat your vessel poses to the environment. Emissions are also a serious concern, particularly with two-stroke engines, which emit a much higher level of hydrocarbons. To that end, it’s important to take the proper measures to ensure your watercraft puts off a minimal amount of exhaust.

First, be sure to use the gas to oil ratio outlined in your owner’s manual; an improper mixture can lead to higher emissions and a greater risk of engine damage. Also be sure to only use premium grade gasoline and boat motor oil, such as Evinrude XD 100. Using top-tier oil will help your engine burn cleaner and prevent carbon deposits. In the end, the number one thing to remember when is comes to being environmentally conscious on your boat is simply to use common sense. And if you do have an accident, be sure to contact the Coast Guard and proper authorities immediately.

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