What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Three

If you have adequate water flow into the strainer and can’t find any obstruction, chances are the problem is something more serious. Unfasten the clamps and remove the hose going into the water pump. Look in the seacock to ensure proper water flow: if water isn’t flowing, it’s an indication that you have a clog somewhere in the hose; if not, you’ll have to dig deeper.

Remove the face from the water pump and inspect the impeller; the fins should be pliable and not show any signs of wear. In addition to extra fuel and Evinrude XD50 oil, you should carry a spare set of fins with you in just in case this scenario occurs. If your fins are in good shape, all signs point to a broken water pump. This is obviously the worst-case scenario, but all is not lost. To get back to shore, remove one of the other electric pumps from the system and use it to connect the raw water intake to the cooling system, effectively circumventing the intake pump.

Did you like this? Share it:

What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Two

If you see the temperature gauge rising, immediately turn the engine off and put up your warning flag for other boaters. Allow your boat to float freely for a few minutes; this will allow the engine to cool and let any debris that may be clogging the system to break free. While the engine is cooling down, open the hatch to the engine room, close the through-hull valve and inspect the strainer. If the strainer is clean, take a look in the through-hull valve to check for water flow into the strainer.

If you have no water flow your intake is clogged, which actually means you are in luck. Simply rid the obstruction from the system, put the strainer back in and you’re good to go. Of course, you will want to monitor the temperature gauge closely for the rest of the day. When you get back to the dock, thoroughly examine the engine to look for any extensive damage; I also recommend putting in some new Evinrude XD100 oil. Tomorrow will go over what to do if your engine problem is more than a simple clog.

Did you like this? Share it:

What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part One

Even if you perform routine maintenance and change your outboard motor oil piously, things will go wrong when you are on the water. And when they do, it’s crucial that you know what course of action to take. If you boat with any regularity, you will inevitably have to deal with an overheating engine at some point.

One of the most common causes of overheating engines is a clogged intake. Garbage and debris is becoming an increasing danger to engines, especially if you are boating close to the shoreline, but simple seaweeds and underwater foliage can be hazardous as well. If you check the intake and it’s clean, you may have a more serious problem on your hands. Tomorrow we’ll go over a detailed contingency plan for the exact modus operandi in the event of an overheating engine.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Five

After you’ve inspected the fuel line, move on to the fuel primer bulb and fuel line fittings. Lastly, check the tank vent to ensure the unit is aspirating properly and there isn’t any water in the fuel. Turn off the engine and the battery, and open the engine cover to check for any leaking fuel or water.

Lubricate all of the moving parts—the carburetor valves, shift and throttle cables, etc. Assuming you have a two-stroke engine, you’re going to need to mix the fuel with outboard motor oil before you refill the tank. Always be sure to use premium certified oil, such as Evinrude XD 100 oil. Once you’re finished, throw the cover on the engine to keep it safe during storage and transportation.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Four

If you find the water used to flush your engine is hot or has debris in it, the most common culprit is some grime stuck in the flow tube. Insert a small piece of wire into the flow tube to dislodge whatever is blocking the system. If this doesn’t work, more often than not it’s a serious problem with the water pump, and you’ll have to take the boat to your mechanic. Once you’ve successfully flushed the engine, it’s time to move on to the other systems.

Disconnect the fuel line so the engine has an opportunity to burn all of the gas and outboard motor oil in the carburetor. A quick caveat: Always use fresh fuel in your vessel, so if the gas has been sitting around for more than two months, get rid of it. In addition to burning the excess fuel in the carb, also be sure to check the fuel line for cracks and signs of wear. In our final installment tomorrow, we will finish checking the fuel systems and cover a few more steps you can take to preserve your boat.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Three

Flushing your engine is one of the most basic and essential components of outboard motor maintenance and as such, every boat owner should be well acquainted with the practice. Aside from a basic garden hose and a water source, the only other tool you need is a set of “rabbit ears”—and not the kind you put on your TV. These rabbit ears consist of two rubber hoses and a metal clamp.

Slide the rabbit ears onto the lower unit where the water intake is and hookup the garden hose. Turn on the engine and the water pump will start to do its magic. Once you start everything up, examine the water pump to ensure a good flow of H20. The water coming out of the pump shouldn’t be hot nor have any debris in it. If this is the case, turn off the engine immediately. Tomorrow will go over how to fix the problem, as well as other routine maintenance like how to change your marine engine oil.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Two

Before we delve into the maintenance procedures, I have a quick caveat: Unless you are a mechanic, have a professional tune-up periodically. It’s good to have a grasp of the basics like changing your Evinrude XD100, but an expert mechanic is sure to detect some problems before you do. Their routine should include a pressure test of the lower unit, testing of the spark plugs, seals and pump, and a comprehensive examination of the rest of the components. Trust me, it’s worth the time and money to nip these systemic problems in the bud.

One of the easiest ways to maintain the integrity of your engine is by flushing it after each outing. Admittedly, sometimes I cheat and go an outing or two in-between flushes—do as I say, not as I do. Salt water is particularly corrosive, so there are no exceptions here. Tomorrow we’ll go over some basic checks you can do for the 10-15 minutes while you are flushing your engine.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part One

Now that the sun is shining and the days are long, taking time to care for your engine is probably not high on your priority list. And why should it bet; the summer is the time to go out and enjoy your vessel, not spend hours in the garage tuning your engine. However, if you neglect to care for your outboard motor, your time on the water could be fraught with disaster. Personally, I like to do my maintenance in the winter to maximize my boating time when the weather is fair.

From overheating and spent spark plugs to corrosion and rusting, a litany of mechanical problems can plague your motor. Luckily, preventing damage to your outboard motor is relatively simple and won’t take hours on end. You obviously want to change your outboard motor oil regularly, but this is only one of the necessary maintenance procedures. Over the next couple of days, we’ll overview a simple maintenance routine to help keep your engine up and running.

Did you like this? Share it:

Environmentally Safe Boating: Part Five

In the previous posts covering eco-friendly boating we have focused exclusively on spilling petroleum products, but this isn’t the only threat your vessel poses to the environment. Emissions are also a serious concern, particularly with two-stroke engines, which emit a much higher level of hydrocarbons. To that end, it’s important to take the proper measures to ensure your watercraft puts off a minimal amount of exhaust.

First, be sure to use the gas to oil ratio outlined in your owner’s manual; an improper mixture can lead to higher emissions and a greater risk of engine damage. Also be sure to only use premium grade gasoline and boat motor oil, such as Evinrude XD 100. Using top-tier oil will help your engine burn cleaner and prevent carbon deposits. In the end, the number one thing to remember when is comes to being environmentally conscious on your boat is simply to use common sense. And if you do have an accident, be sure to contact the Coast Guard and proper authorities immediately.

Did you like this? Share it:

Environmentally Safe Boating: Part Four

Fueling your boat is obviously one of the riskiest practices when it comes to petroleum spills in the water. Not only will spilling gasoline harm the wildlife and ecosystem, the corrosive nature of the fuel can cause serious damage to the hull of your boat as well. Although gas stations built on piers are easily accessible for boaters, the ramifications of a spill are exponentially worse than if you were refueling on dry land. So whenever possible, throw your boat on the trailer and make the trip down the street to your standard station.

Whenever you fill your boat, be sure to leave about 10 percent of the tank unfilled to allow for expansion and help prevent spills. There are multiple ways to determine when the tank is almost to capacity, including sounding sticks, listening to the filter pipe and, of course, taking note of the tank’s volume. Another one of the main ways boaters contaminate a body of water is by discharging outboard motor oil through the bilge pump; however, this should be an issue if you keep your engine well maintained. But just to be safe, it’s a good idea to place some oil absorbent materials in the bilge boom and underneath the engine.

Did you like this? Share it:

Environmentally Safe Boating: Part Three

Due to the systemic risk of petroleum and oil in our water systems, there are several federal laws pertaining to the proper disposal of these fluids. Under The Federal Water Pollution Control Act, any expulsion of oil or oily substances into navigable water or water in the contiguous zone is illegal and carries up to a $5,000 penalty. Of course, you can always find ways around the law, but as we’ve learned in previous blog posts, the detrimental effects of oil in the water vast, so you shouldn’t need any additional coercion to deter you from dumping.

In addition, The Clean Water Act forbids you to use soap, dispersants or emulsifiers in an attempt to clean a spill. Unauthorized use of these cleaning agents carries a hefty penalty—as much as $25,000. If you accidentally spill any oil or see a fellow boater leaking gasoline or dumping mercury engine oil, the best M.O. is to call the Coast Guard and give a detailed report of the spill.

Did you like this? Share it:

Environmentally Safe Boating: Part Two

The BP oil spill has rekindled public awareness of the detrimental effects humans can have on water and ecosystems. And while the oil flowing into the Gulf of Mexico is extremely hazardous, materials from your boat can be just as dangerous. Petroleum alone is perilous for wildlife, but gasoline also contains benzene and other carcinogens. As we have seen in recent weeks, cleaning water is an infinitely difficult proposition, so the best M.O. is to prevent a spill in the first place.

Outboard motor oils, such as Evinrude XD100, contain a litany of potentially dangerous elements as well, including zinc, sulfur and phosphorus. Some people assume that a relatively small amount of gasoline or oil spilling into the water isn’t a big deal, using the BP logic that the body of water is immense, so my little quantity of oil is just a drop in the bucket. In fact, just one pint of oil has the capability of covering once acre of surface area on the water.

Did you like this? Share it: