Motor Oil | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 39

Pulling a Water Skier: Part Two

Once the towrope is taut, give it some gas and accelerate smoothly. A quick caveat before we continue with how to pull a skier: Be sure to adjust your ratio of gasoline to Yamalube oil carefully to ensure peak engine performance. Many people accelerate too slowly, which means the skier will be dragged under the water. Note that if the skier is only using one ski, you will want to give the boat a little extra juice.

After the skier is up, settle in at your cruising speed and head for open water. When making a turn, begin by angling the boat slightly to one side, then bringing it back around in a circle to the other side. Be sure to maintain your speed throughout the turn, as the boat will naturally slow down. Once the circle is complete, straighten your boat out so you are going the opposite direction from which you came. Tomorrow we’ll go over the protocol for when the skier goes down and cover some general safety tips.

Did you like this? Share it:

Pulling a Water Skier: Part One

Boats are certainly fun to drive and it’s enjoyable to spend a day anchored in the middle of a serene lake, but one of the main reasons most people invest in a boat is water sports. And while towing an innertube is a cinch, getting a skier up—especially a novice—can be difficult. The boat driver has a crucial impact on the enjoyment and the safety of the skier, so before you put someone behind your boat, be sure you know what you’re doing.

When the skier is in the water, have the engine cut and someone else on board displaying your safety flag, which should always be kept with your extra gasoline and Evinrude XD 100. Once the skier has the handles of the towrope and is comfortable in the water, clear the rope from the propeller and start the engine. Slowly move away from the boater until all of the slack has been removed from the towrope. Tomorrow we’ll go over how to get them up.

Did you like this? Share it:

How to Choose Your Outboard Motor Oil

If you only take your boat out once in a blue moon, you probably don’t care too much about which types of motor oil you choose—and you probably wouldn’t have stumbled upon this blog post either. Avid boaters know the importance of choosing top tier outboard motor oil. But with literally dozens of choices on store shelves, how do you know which one is right for you?

The most important thing to look for is , which ensures the oil meets a set of rigorous standards set forth by the NMAA. Most manufacturers offer at least one oil that meets TC-W3 standards; the main difference across brands is the additives. Personally, I like to follow the logic that the manufacturer knows their engine best, so they should also be able to create the best oil for it. When it boils down to it though, as long as your oil is TC-W3 certified, you’re in the clear.

Did you like this? Share it:

Basic Boat Trailering: Part Two

The first time you back your boat into the water it can certainly be daunting; I mean, it’s not everyday your supposed to back your vehicle towards a body of water. When you’re launching your boat, your trailer will obviously have to be submerged in the water. For some reason—unbeknownst to me—various trailer lights aren’t waterproof, which can lead to short-circuiting when they get wet. As such, always opt for the waterproof option.

If it’s your first time launching your boat (and even if you’ve done it hundreds of times), it’s a good idea to have someone get out and help guide you into the water. It doesn’t matter if the tires of the trailer get in the water, but you’ll want to avoid submerging the wheel hubs, which can lead to rust and corrosion. Once the boat can float, undo all of the ties and cables attaching it to the trailer and secure it to the dock. That probably seemed easy, so tomorrow we’ll go over the more difficult task: getting the boat back on the trailer.  Make sure you have all your essentials in the boat, life jackets, drinking water, cell phone and extra outboard motor oil.

Did you like this? Share it:

How to Change Outboard Motor Oil

While the two-stroke engine has fallen out of favor, it does boast one distinct advantage over its four-stroke successor: you don’t have to change the outboard motor oil. Sure, you have to mix the oil with gasoline consistently, but changing your oil can be a hassle. And if you neglect to do it, you can cause serious damage to your engine. You don’t have to worry if you have a four-stroke, however; changing your outboard motor oil is simple:

~Take the boat out of the water and put it on a trailer
~Remove the engine cover
~Check the oil using the dipstick in the crankcase
~Use the trim button to raise the motor, allowing the oil to drain out from the crankcase easily
~Drain the oil into an empty container. Take out the drain plug to allow all the oil to draw off.
~Replace the drain plug and refill the oil until it reaches the full level

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Five

After you’ve inspected the fuel line, move on to the fuel primer bulb and fuel line fittings. Lastly, check the tank vent to ensure the unit is aspirating properly and there isn’t any water in the fuel. Turn off the engine and the battery, and open the engine cover to check for any leaking fuel or water.

Lubricate all of the moving parts—the carburetor valves, shift and throttle cables, etc. Assuming you have a two-stroke engine, you’re going to need to mix the fuel with outboard motor oil before you refill the tank. Always be sure to use premium certified oil, such as Evinrude XD 100 oil. Once you’re finished, throw the cover on the engine to keep it safe during storage and transportation.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Four

If you find the water used to flush your engine is hot or has debris in it, the most common culprit is some grime stuck in the flow tube. Insert a small piece of wire into the flow tube to dislodge whatever is blocking the system. If this doesn’t work, more often than not it’s a serious problem with the water pump, and you’ll have to take the boat to your mechanic. Once you’ve successfully flushed the engine, it’s time to move on to the other systems.

Disconnect the fuel line so the engine has an opportunity to burn all of the gas and outboard motor oil in the carburetor. A quick caveat: Always use fresh fuel in your vessel, so if the gas has been sitting around for more than two months, get rid of it. In addition to burning the excess fuel in the carb, also be sure to check the fuel line for cracks and signs of wear. In our final installment tomorrow, we will finish checking the fuel systems and cover a few more steps you can take to preserve your boat.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part Three

Flushing your engine is one of the most basic and essential components of outboard motor maintenance and as such, every boat owner should be well acquainted with the practice. Aside from a basic garden hose and a water source, the only other tool you need is a set of “rabbit ears”—and not the kind you put on your TV. These rabbit ears consist of two rubber hoses and a metal clamp.

Slide the rabbit ears onto the lower unit where the water intake is and hookup the garden hose. Turn on the engine and the water pump will start to do its magic. Once you start everything up, examine the water pump to ensure a good flow of H20. The water coming out of the pump shouldn’t be hot nor have any debris in it. If this is the case, turn off the engine immediately. Tomorrow will go over how to fix the problem, as well as other routine maintenance like how to change your marine engine oil.

Did you like this? Share it:

Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part One

Now that the sun is shining and the days are long, taking time to care for your engine is probably not high on your priority list. And why should it bet; the summer is the time to go out and enjoy your vessel, not spend hours in the garage tuning your engine. However, if you neglect to care for your outboard motor, your time on the water could be fraught with disaster. Personally, I like to do my maintenance in the winter to maximize my boating time when the weather is fair.

From overheating and spent spark plugs to corrosion and rusting, a litany of mechanical problems can plague your motor. Luckily, preventing damage to your outboard motor is relatively simple and won’t take hours on end. You obviously want to change your outboard motor oil regularly, but this is only one of the necessary maintenance procedures. Over the next couple of days, we’ll overview a simple maintenance routine to help keep your engine up and running.

Did you like this? Share it:

Environmentally Safe Boating: Part One

With tens of thousands of barrels of oil gushing into the Gulf of Mexico everyday, people around the country have suddenly taken more interest in environmental issues, particularly as they pertain to the water. If you have been boating for years, chances are you were already well aware of the myriad risks that constantly threaten lakes, streams, rivers and oceans. And while you may not be able to produce a disaster on the scale of the BP spill, gasoline and outboard motor oil from your vessel are still a hazard to the environment.

To that end, it is imperative to take the proper precautions when changing your oil, fueling or handling other potential dangerous substances, particularly when you are around the water. As you can imagine, cleaning up spilled gas or oil from water is virtually impossible. Over the next few days we will be covering some of the basics on how to protect the environment and abide by federal and local laws.

Did you like this? Share it:

Boat Trailers and Launching: Part Five

Whenever you are towing your boat, no matter how short the journey, always be sure to bring along a spare tire. In my experience, trailers get flats far more often than cars. Also be sure to bring along a jack that has the capacity to lift your trailer and boat along with your extra outboard motor oil.  Once you successfully get the boat to the launch, the only thing left to do is get her in the water.

If you have never backed up a trailer before, I recommend practicing before you get to the ramp. Be sure to always keep the trailer in your sights and drive slowly while you are backing up. I could spend all of next week writing a series on how to back your trailer, but the fact of the matter is that the only way you learn is by doing it yourself. One tip, however: Don’t be afraid to pull forward and start again. It’s always easier to launch the boat when you are aligned properly.

Did you like this? Share it:

Boat Trailer and Launching: Part Four

When it comes to actually towing your boat, it is always best to err on the side of caution. If you have a modestly sized vessel, be sure to secure it to the trailer with straps. All boats under 1,000 pounds should be strapped down, and if there is any doubt in your mind, it’s worth taking the extra five minutes to secure the boat. In addition to the craft, be sure that liquids like outboard motor oil are secure and that life jackets and other accessories won’t fly out of the boat.

For those with an outboard motor, you should remove it when towing the boat in virtually all circumstances. It certainly is a hassle to take the engine off its bracket, but it’s more of a headache to have to replace your motor. And before you leave the driveway, be sure you know if your boat is covered by your insurance policy. Some auto policies won’t cover the boat while it’s on the trailer, so do your research.

Did you like this? Share it: