Winterizing Your ATV: Part Four

Yesterday we discussed the importance of using premium synthetic oil in your ATV, but we neglected to say what to look for. The criteria for a premium ATV oil is much the same as outboard motor oil; in cold weather conditions the pour point is the most critical variable, which tells you the lowest temperature at which the oil will be effective. Once you have filled your engine with top-tier oil, it’s time to check out the battery.

Particularly if you are just taking the machine out of storage, it’s a good idea to check the battery to ensure the charge is adequate. You may need to attach the unit to a charger if it is low, but be sure to make sure it holds the charge before your head out. The fuel tank has a tendency to collect condensation in cold weather, which then has the potential to freeze, so be sure to keep the tank as full as possible at all times.

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Winterizing Your ATV: Part One

Now that we’ve got the boat stowed away for the winter and have dealt with all of the necessary fuel and outboard motor oil chores, it’s time to start thinking about getting your winter vehicles out of storage. My family has an assortment of vehicles for soggy, cold conditions, but my favorite has to be our fleet of ATVs. Of course, you can’t simply take these vehicles out of storage and begin tackling the terrain immediately.

Just as you have to winterize a boat for storage, you also need to go through a winterization process before exposing ATVs to frigid climates. Over the next few days, we’ll be covering some of the basics of this winterization process to ensure your engine doesn’t seize up. We’ll also touch on some of the basic maintenance procedures that should be performed regularly, especially when starting up your machine for the first time since it’s been in storage.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part One

Now that the summer boating season is winding down, it’s time to start thinking about putting your boat in storage for the fall and winter. You may assume that you can simply throw your boat on the trailer, put the cover on and let it sit for months on end. This may work for a season or two, but eventually this sort of neglect will begin to cause damage to your vessel.

It’s critical to take some time at the end of each season to make sure your boat is stowed properly. Not only will this improve its longevity, it will also make your job easier when it comes time to get it water-ready next spring. Over the next few days will go over the proper protocol for handling the cleaning, outboard motor oil removal and other crucial components of boat winterization.

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Boat Ownership: Part Three

As I mentioned to other day, you initial investment in your vessel is just that—the initial investment. Just like with a car, you will continually be sinking money into your boat. You may have the budget for a down payment and finance charges, but do you have the means for everything else? And will it really be worth it? Here is a quick rundown of some of the basic costs you’ll have to deal with:

~Finance Payments
~Registration (for boat and trailer) and licensing
~Insurance
~Dock Fees
~Gas and Yamalube oil
~Dock Fees
~Taxes
~Storage
~Routine Maintenance

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Four

One of the most perilous times for your boat is the transfer from dry land to the water. This often involves a lengthy drive and being in reverse when the end of your trailer is over 20 feet away. Particularly when you’re backing your boat, the motor is extremely susceptible, so it’s imperative to take some precautionary measures to make sure your boat makes it into the water in one piece.

First, always make sure your vessel is topped off with fuel and outboard motor oil before you reach the marina. When backing the boat towards the water, always have a spotter outside the boat to guide you. If you are unfamiliar with launching your boat, it’s a good idea to take some dry runs in the driveway before you try the real thing. Use your mirrors as you are reversing, moving the steering wheel in the direction you want the back to go.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Two

Immediately following every outing you should run through a short checklist to ensure your motor wasn’t damaged and will be ready for your next outing. The first line of business is to flush the engine. For this you’ll need a set of rabbit ears, which is a pair of rubber hoses connected by a metal clamp. The apparatus slips on to the lower unit where you can attach the garden hose.

When you’re flushing the engine, ensure that the water flowing through the system isn’t hot. If the water is hot or the flow is weak, it’s an indication that some debris is blocking the system. You can easily remove the blockage by inserting a small piece of wire into the flow tube. Once the engine has been flushed, spray down everything with some lubricant. Finish by topping off your tank with a mixture of fuel and Evinrude XD100.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part One

The vast majority of outboard motor problems are easily preventable with proper care and routine maintenance. Flushing the engine after six hours of boating isn’t fun, but it will help you keep your engine performing in peak condition and extend its longevity. Although motor maintenance is a chore, it’s easy for virtually anyone with a tool kit.

Over the next couple of days, we’ll be covering some basic preventative care that should be done after every outing. We’ll also discuss some of the keys for long-term care, how to prepare the motor for storage, and some tips for protecting the unit during transportation. And we’ll go over the basics, including how to select and mix your outboard motor oil properly.

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Fate Favors the Prepared Boater

As you can probably imagine, I’m always a little over prepared whenever I take my boat out. And the ironic thing is that the ones who are prepared usually aren’t the ones who need the extra supplies out at sea. In fact, I’ve definitely stopped and assisted boaters more times than I’ve had trouble on the water myself. Just last weekend my son and I had to take a quick break from our bass fishing in order to give a family some assistance.

You could tell the guy hadn’t owned a boat long, as the license stickers still had their showroom sheen. It was evident that his wife was more than a little peeved. The boat was just bobbing along and the engine was sputtering, so my son and I coasted over, and I told him to cut the engine. After asking him a few questions I was quickly able to diagnose the problem; he hadn’t mixed any outboard motor oil with the fuel and the unit for overheating. Since I always have extra two-cycle oil on board, I gave him some and showed him how to mix it safely.

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Who are the NMMA?

The National Marine Manufacturers Association (NMMA) are a group of more than 1,400 companies which create the full gamut of boating products. From outboard motor oil to the vessels themselves, companies in the NMMA supply everything boaters need. The NMMA accounts for roughly 80 percent of all the marine products sold in North America each year.

The NMMA was formed when the BIA and NAEBM merged in 1979. Since its inception, the NMMA has been the premier boating organization in North America, creating many of the standards for the boating industry. They’re the ones who created and test for TC-W3 certification, of course. The goal of the NMMA, as outlined in their mission statement, is to provide the highest quality boating products while protecting and preserving the environment.

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Why Use Premium Outboard Motor Oil?

Needless to say, some of my boating brethren don’t take outboard motor oil as seriously as I do. And that’s okay, because most people don’t. But if you own a vessel, investing in premium outboard motor oil is important. While all oils provide lubrication and help protect the engine, a premium synthetic blend drastically improves the overall performance of your craft.

Top tier oil, like Evinrude XD 100 oil, can be used in a range of boats: outboard engines, direct injection or oil injected. Two-stroke oils have a tendency to smoke and emit odors, but premium oil reduces the emissions from your engine and prolongs the motor’s life. And when your engine runs cleaner, acceleration is smoother and overall performance is better.

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3-Bladed v. 4-Bladed Propellers

For years, three-blade propellers have been the standard issue for virtually all boat motors. But on certain boats, particularly bigger ones, a four-blade propeller can offer some distinct advantages, so their usage is becoming more and more common. Although three-blade propellers will be faster at full throttle, most of the time four-blade propellers are more stable and efficient, meaning you spend less on gas and outboard motor oil.

The overall increased surface area of the blades on a four-blade prop make planing easier, which is particularly useful when you are pulling skiers or wakeboarders. This large amount of blade area also reduces vibrations, making for a smoother ride on all levels. There is no cut-and-dry method for choosing which propeller is best for your vessel; there are simply too many variables in the equation.

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How to Pull a Skier: Part Three

One way or another, the skier is eventually going to go down, and the proper steps must be taken to ensure their safety. As soon as the skier lets go of the towrope, immediately grab your safety flag—which should be stowed away with your extra outboard motor oil and other supplies. The flag alerts other boaters to the person in the water. Quickly circle back around and come back to the skier.

You should always pass the skier on the driver’s side of the vessel, which allows you to talk and keep them in constant eye contact. If the skier wants to go another round, bring the boat around to the right, which will draw the towrope up next to the skier. If, on the other hand, they’ve had enough, simply pull forward to give them access to the step. In our final installment tomorrow, we’ll cover some basic tips and precautions to ensure safe skiing.

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