bulk oil | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 23

Staying Active

When my wife and I retired, we knew that simply sitting around and growing old wouldn’t be enough to keep us satisfied. After working at a desk job for 47 years, I wanted to live near the water and have the freedom to be outside and interact with people. Following much deliberation, we decided to move to Tahoe and start our own watercraft rental service.

We’ve been at it for three years now, and I love every minute of it. I handle the business side of things, like accounting and ordering bulk motor oil and other supplies, while my wife focuses on the customers and day-to-day operations. Admittedly, it is hard work, but I don’t mind since I get to relax on a boat of jet ski whenever I like.

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Preventive Care for Outboard Motors

bulk-outboard-motor-oil1For most fishermen and fans of recreational water sports, a boat represents one of the most serious investments in one’s life. It generally comes down to a house, a car, and then a boat – in that order. So, assuming your boat is the third biggest financial investment in your life, doesn’t it deserve the sort of time and energy you put into your other prized possessions? After all, your home might be remodeled, repainted or at least cleaned each spring. And you wouldn’t think of driving your car much more than 3,000 miles without an oil change, would you?

While there aren’t universal rules about adding bulk outboard motor oil to the boat engine, it’s up to you to consult your owner’s manual for guidelines. When boating season begins, it’s best to take your winterized boat to a professional mechanic. After that, you should be able to handle post-trip routine maintenance. It’s important to always flush out the engine – whether you’re boating in salt water or fresh.

The only tools necessary for this task are a garden hose and a set of rabbit ears, or seals that slip into the lower unit of the engine. Take this opportunity to check the stream of water as it flows out of the pump. If it’s hot, there could be some debris jammed inside. This will end up taxing the engine too much, so it’s best to shut things down and root around inside the tubing for the source of blockage. After that, disconnect the fuel line and burn all the fuel in the carburetor.

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It’s Outboard Motor Tune-up Time, Part II

ob_maint_1_-038

When we left off yesterday, we were right in the middle of a visual inspection of the outboard motor – the sort of examination that should be performed every time you undertake the annual tune-up process. Now that we’ve established that no fluids have obviously leaked from the motor to the ground, it’s time to take a close look at the propeller. Small cracks or nicks in the tip of the blades can decrease efficiency, as can misaligned or bent blades.

Again, I’d ask you to defer to your owner’s manual at this point. Seek out the seasonal tune-up recommendations and find out whether or not you should be changing lubricant in the motor’s lower unit. If recommended, remove the top and bottom fill plugs and watch carefully as the lubricant drains into a spare waste container. Just as you replaced your old motor oil with bulk oil, substitute in new lubricant.

The lubricant applicator’s nozzle should fit nicely in the bottom fill hole; squirt it into the gear case. Then, just as it starts to overflow and ooze out of the top fill hole, return the top plug to its accustomed place. Do the same with the bottom plug and wipe away any extraneous lubricant with a cloth. We’ll continue with necessary lubrication in tomorrow’s edition.

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The Trouble with Fuel Additives

bulk-outboard-motor-oilSeveral decades ago, when Congress granted the Environmental Protection Agency increased powers to regulate America’s air and water pollution, outboard motor manufacturers were forced to take notice. Inefficient 2-stroke engines had been the norm up to that point, and it was agreed that the outboard companies would either have to drop 2-strokes from their product lines entirely or find a way to make them more eco-friendly.

As evidenced by the newer offerings from Mercury, Evinrude and Yamaha, motor companies found innovative ways to boost efficiency. While most of these attempts were successful, others were ill-advised. This was especially true of the additives that were suddenly being used to supplement marine and auto fuels. An additive called MTBE was thought to bolster octane rating and to burn more of the hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide in the exhaust.

Unfortunately, MTBE also turned out to be a serious contaminant that mixes easily with water and seeps into groundwater leaving pollution in its wake. The latest replacement additive for MTBE, ethanol, isn’t much better when considered in high concentrations. Its environmental impact is beneficial, but the substance mixes with water to create a sludge that can crack and clog outboard fuel systems. It just goes to show that motor companies and researchers have yet to find the perfect fuel additive blend. For now it’s best to stick with low-ethanol fuel and bulk outboard motor oil.

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When Buying an Outboard, Think Long-Term

bulk-motor-oilBuying an outboard motor is a process that should not be taken lightly. As perhaps the most critical purchase you’ll ever make in regards to your boat, it deserves significant preparation and forethought. Take some time to explore the market – both online and at nearby dealerships. Scan the classified ads in your local newspaper for used outboards, but remember that most marine engines manufactured since 1990 should receive TC-W3 certified bulk motor oil.

Our logical tendency as consumers is to seek out the best deal, and to some that might mean the lowest price. Unfortunately, the cheapest goods don’t always equate to the best value. There’s a lot of truth in the old saying that “you get what you pay for.” Still, it’s possible to find a lot of value on the used market. You’ll just need to be discerning when making your selection.

When making your purchase, try to look beyond the price-tag and the immediate costs. All outboards require basic maintenance, and in the case of a high-quality model, that maintenance should be enough to make the engine last for years at a time. Before latching onto a bargain-basement-priced off-brand outboard, ask yourself if it’s really worth it in the long run.

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Looking Back at the EPA Phase-In

outboard1Today’s boaters could be forgiven for putting the past out of mind. As recently as the 1990s, federal rules for outboard engine efficiency were much less stringent – to the point that pollution became a problem and the small boating industry became something of a scapegoat for environmental groups. Around 1996, the marine industry and the Environmental Protection Agency teamed up to create and enforce fuel standards.

That standard might seemed especially ambitious at the time – outboard engine hydrocarbon emissions were to be reduced by 75 percent from 1996 levels in just 10 years – but it was necessary to move forward. The phase-in started in 1998, and traditional carbureted 2-stroke engines were immediately targeted for a revamp. In the past, 2-strokes accounted for more than 12 times as much pollution as their 4-stroke counterparts.

Today, most of us would be hard-pressed to remember the days when 2-strokes lagged behind in terms of fuel efficiency and eco-friendliness. Direct fuel injection represented a tremendous boon by cutting down the ozone-forming exhaust coughed up by engines as much as 95 percent. The increased fuel efficiency of today’s outboards has allowed boaters to save serious cash on bulk oil. It’s important to note, however, that these regulations apply only to newer boats. The clean technology developed by manufacturers with the help of the EPA cannot be retrofitted to an old boat.

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Pros and Cons of Each Drive System

drive-system

A boat’s drive system consists of components that work together to transfer engine power to the water, directing the thrust of the vessel. A problem with the drive system can spell disaster for a boat’s mobility and bring what should have been a peaceful day out on the lake to a screeching halt. Today we’ll take a closer look at the three main types of drive systems as well as their individual strengths and weaknesses.

Drive systems are identified by their positioning in the boat. The three types include inboard, outboard and inboard/outboard. Among the three, outboard motors are highly touted for their portability and the fact that they don’t take up any interior space. It’s crucial that the weight of an outboard is chosen according to the size of a boat, as a heavy motor can cause the craft to sit low in the water. Before taking an extended trip with this type of engine, it’s crucial to pack a supply of bulk outboard motor oil.

Inboard engines often get credit for providing more stability as they can be balanced inside the boat near the center of the hull. Unfortunately, these engines are less than ideal when families or large groups of friends want to take a ride; they simply take up so much interior room. An inboard/outboard system solves the space problem by keeping most of its components outside the boat, but the engine itself is more complex and prone to breakdowns.

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Ethanol: How Much Is Too Much for Boaters?

ethanol-insetOver the last few months, we’ve visited and revisited the threat posed by ethanol additives to the small boat industry. Specifically, ethanol lobbyists are seeking a waiver to sell E15 – that’s gas with a 15 percent concentration of ethanol – or even E20 as a standard fuel mixture for marine engines. As many boaters are aware, most small vessels on the market and in the water today are ill-equipped to deal with such high concentrations of the additive.

The question, then, for most boaters is “how much is too much?” The answer depends on the make, model and year of each individual boat. While most outboards are made to handle standard two cycle oil made by the likes of Yamaha, Evinrude and Mercury, marine engines can generally tolerate E10. The fuel system of the boat is a whole other story, as even a 10 percent concentration of ethanol can do irreparable damage.

E10 has a shelf life of two weeks, after which time it undergoes phase separation. If a boat sits idle for any extended stretch of time, the ethanol additive will evaporate, leaving behind only low-octane fuel. This fuel is much more likely to create blockages in the fuel system, and the ethanol that separates will sink to the bottom of the tank. After phase separation occurs, the fuel system is rendered inoperable until it’s drained.

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Pack a Backup Battery

boat-fishingWith technology advancing by leaps and bounds in recent years, allowing anglers to pinpoint their location, route, and the best places to find fish, it should come as no surprise that reliable batteries and charging systems are a top priority. Many boaters rely on GPS, fish finder technology and VHF radios for communication; none of this would be possible without the juice required to power the whole enterprise.

While the above features could be classified as luxuries, there are several functional parts of the boat that also need battery power – namely electronic fuel injection systems. As such, Yamaha recommends that boaters bring two battery systems onboard. One should be used as the main power source for starting the engine, and the other should be dedicated to the specialized electrical devices.

By limiting yourself to a single battery system, you run the risk of sapping it part-way through your trip. Just as you should always bring bulk motor oil along for lengthy voyages, you should also be prepared in case of battery problems. Bring a backup or two, and you can work on installing it into the system as needed. Bear in mind that deep-cycle batteries are suited for energizing the electrical system as they are more dependable over an extended period of time than cranking batteries.

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Increasing Power and Efficiency

speed-boat_thb

Over the years, 2 stroke engine manufacturers competed not only to build the most powerful engines, but also the most efficient ones. Efficiency becomes even more crucial when discussing engines in the 115 to 150 hp range. These outboards are best suited for boat owners who don’t mess around – they want to get from point A to point B quickly, and reliability is key. Still, it would be a shame to waste a perfectly good fuel/oil mixture.

Loop charging, also known as Schneurle porting, is a method by which transfer ports force the fresh fuel/air mixture into the combustion chamber as soon as it enters the cylinder. This discourages fuel from being lost through the exhaust port, improving efficiency as well as engine power. The method got its moniker from Anton Schneurle, a German scientist who invented a form of it in the 1920s.

Prior to the widespread of loop charging, 2 stroke engines trailed behind their 4 stroke counterparts in terms of power and efficiency. Today, Yamaha and other purveyors of 2 cycle oil feature a line of high-end, loop-charged engines that run the gamut from 115 hp to 150 hp. Without these innovations, boat owners wouldn’t be able to enjoy the speed and efficiency of modern outboard engines.

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Don’t Let that Fuel System Corrode in the Offseason

boat-at-dock

You’ve done everything right so far. When it came time to winterize your boat, you followed every solid piece of advice, from flushing the outboard engine with fresh water to disconnecting the fuel hose and changing the gear oil. Unfortunately, there’s one minor detail you may have overlooked, and it’s a doozie. It’s just as important to care for your engine and its components during the offseason as it is during the height of summer.

While your boat is still being used regularly, you’re always diligent about replenishing the supply of bulk oil, so don’t skimp on the essentials during winter. You’ll need to implement a fuel additive – a stabilizer specifically – to ensure that the fuel system doesn’t corrode from disuse. During the summer, most of the varnish and other assorted buildup in the fuel system is flushed out as the engine is in regular use.

These additives keep the system well lubricated so that rust and corrosion don’t build up on the bare metal parts in the fuel system. Since it’s nearly impossible as well as unadvisable to drain all of the water out of your fuel system, additives keep excess water at bay, preventing varnish and sludge from depositing inside the injectors, carburetors and other vital parts of the engine.

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What Is Lubricity?

viscosity

Yesterday’s discussion of TC-W3 brought a few terms to the fore that might have been unfamiliar to novice boaters. Seeing as how it’s so important to understand every facet of your outboard motor in order to get the most out of it, it’s time to define some terms. Some people have a tendency to confuse lubricity with viscosity when in fact they are two entirely different principles.

When considered in a bulk outboard motor oil context, viscosity refers to the thickness of the fluid. Oil must be viscous enough to stand up to the intense heat created during the combustion process; otherwise it will fail to coat the hot engine adequately. On the other hand, if the oil is too viscous it can create blockages in the fuel system and make the boat ineffective for cold starts.

Lubricity is a bit tougher to define, but it’s equally important in terms of maximizing outboard motor performance. To put it in a rudimentary way, lubricity measures an oil’s capacity to lubricate against wear and tear. In the course of its normal operation, an engine generates plenty of friction. This combination of intense heat and pressure can be detrimental to a motor that isn’t properly lubricated.

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