Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part One

The vast majority of outboard motor problems are easily preventable with proper care and routine maintenance. Flushing the engine after six hours of boating isn’t fun, but it will help you keep your engine performing in peak condition and extend its longevity. Although motor maintenance is a chore, it’s easy for virtually anyone with a tool kit.

Over the next couple of days, we’ll be covering some basic preventative care that should be done after every outing. We’ll also discuss some of the keys for long-term care, how to prepare the motor for storage, and some tips for protecting the unit during transportation. And we’ll go over the basics, including how to select and mix your outboard motor oil properly.

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Ole Evinrude: Father of the Outboard Motor

Ole Evinrude was born in Norway’s capital city of Oslo in 1877 but immigrated to the US with his family five years later. During his adolescence, Ole was sent to work in machinery stores and to teach himself engineering. He evolved into a machinist and worked at various firms around the Midwest.

Ole went into business for himself in 1900, and by 1907, he had built the first outboard motor. That original model was forged from brass and steel with a crank to get the two-cycle engine going. The business’ growth was steady after the conception of the motor until 1919, when Ole improved on his design, sold his stake in the old company and started anew. The Evinrude name has reached legendary proportions in the boating industry, and you’ll still find it plastered on everything for two-cycle motors to Evinrude XD100 oil.

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Fate Favors the Prepared Boater

As you can probably imagine, I’m always a little over prepared whenever I take my boat out. And the ironic thing is that the ones who are prepared usually aren’t the ones who need the extra supplies out at sea. In fact, I’ve definitely stopped and assisted boaters more times than I’ve had trouble on the water myself. Just last weekend my son and I had to take a quick break from our bass fishing in order to give a family some assistance.

You could tell the guy hadn’t owned a boat long, as the license stickers still had their showroom sheen. It was evident that his wife was more than a little peeved. The boat was just bobbing along and the engine was sputtering, so my son and I coasted over, and I told him to cut the engine. After asking him a few questions I was quickly able to diagnose the problem; he hadn’t mixed any outboard motor oil with the fuel and the unit for overheating. Since I always have extra two-cycle oil on board, I gave him some and showed him how to mix it safely.

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What Makes Some Synthetics Better?

When you’re buying oil and comparing Evinrude XD 100 and XD 50, do you really know what the difference is? The XD100 is more expensive, so it’s fairly obvious that it is superior in some way. Virtually all synthetics start with the same base structure, especially variants of the same manufacturer. The difference is in the additives.

Oils that are more expensive contain more additives, which enhance the performance of your engine. While standard grade oil will provide lubrication and protect your engine, premium oils work to eliminate ash, smoke and odor too. They also can improve the longevity of your motor.

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Mixing Gas and Outboard Motor Oil

Some people see mixing outboard motor oil and gasoline as a chore, but I actually prefer it. It beats having to change the oil the traditional way twice a year, in my opinion at least. Each two-stroke engine specifies a different fuel to oil ratio, so be sure to consult your owner’s manual; when I mix in my Evinrude XD100, I use a 50:1 ratio.

To figure out the proper combination, you first have to convert everything to a common unit of measurement—ounces are the easiest. There are 128 ounces in a gallon. So lets say you are going to prepare 5 gallons of mixed fuel, which is equivalent to 640 ounces. Since I use a 50:1 ratio, I divide 640 by 50 to get 12.8—so I need 12.8 ounces of outboard motor oil.

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Is There a Difference Between Two- and Four-Stroke Oil?

Two-stroke engines are more powerful and compact than the four-stroke, which is why they are found on the back of so many boats. But some boats do have four-stroke engines. When you purchase outboard motor oil, you’ll notice that there is both two- and four-stroke oil, but is there really any difference?  As we all know, one of the biggest differences between the two types of motors is how you put oil in the system. In a two-stroke motor the gas and oil are mixed, while in a four-stroke the oil is contained in a separate compartment.

Two-stroke oil costs more, but is it really worth the extra money. The simple answer is yes. And the reason is that two-stroke motors are more susceptible to wear because of the immense amount of power they generate in half the movements. Two-stroke oils have higher ratings to ensure your engine gets the protection it need.

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The History of Synthetic Oil

Yesterday we discussed why using premium oil is so important for boaters, but what I failed to mention was that most premium bulk oil on the market today is synthetic. And while we may think that synthetics are relatively new, their origins date back many decades. During the 1930s and 1940s, Dr. Hermann Zorn began to research new engine lubricant which wouldn’t coagulate or become sticky like the oils of his day. His research led him to the conclusion that esters held the answer. At the same time as Zorn’s research, the US was in the process of synthesizing esters for use in oils.

Synthetic oils were first used in WWII by both Germany and the United States. It wasn’t until the 1960s however until Chevron released the first synthetic for commercial use. The quality of synthetics has continually improved, with new esters and methods constantly being utilized. Today, synthetic oils are the gold standard of the industry.

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3-Bladed v. 4-Bladed Propellers

For years, three-blade propellers have been the standard issue for virtually all boat motors. But on certain boats, particularly bigger ones, a four-blade propeller can offer some distinct advantages, so their usage is becoming more and more common. Although three-blade propellers will be faster at full throttle, most of the time four-blade propellers are more stable and efficient, meaning you spend less on gas and outboard motor oil.

The overall increased surface area of the blades on a four-blade prop make planing easier, which is particularly useful when you are pulling skiers or wakeboarders. This large amount of blade area also reduces vibrations, making for a smoother ride on all levels. There is no cut-and-dry method for choosing which propeller is best for your vessel; there are simply too many variables in the equation.

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How to Pull a Skier: Part Three

One way or another, the skier is eventually going to go down, and the proper steps must be taken to ensure their safety. As soon as the skier lets go of the towrope, immediately grab your safety flag—which should be stowed away with your extra outboard motor oil and other supplies. The flag alerts other boaters to the person in the water. Quickly circle back around and come back to the skier.

You should always pass the skier on the driver’s side of the vessel, which allows you to talk and keep them in constant eye contact. If the skier wants to go another round, bring the boat around to the right, which will draw the towrope up next to the skier. If, on the other hand, they’ve had enough, simply pull forward to give them access to the step. In our final installment tomorrow, we’ll cover some basic tips and precautions to ensure safe skiing.

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Pulling a Water Skier: Part Two

Once the towrope is taut, give it some gas and accelerate smoothly. A quick caveat before we continue with how to pull a skier: Be sure to adjust your ratio of gasoline to Yamalube oil carefully to ensure peak engine performance. Many people accelerate too slowly, which means the skier will be dragged under the water. Note that if the skier is only using one ski, you will want to give the boat a little extra juice.

After the skier is up, settle in at your cruising speed and head for open water. When making a turn, begin by angling the boat slightly to one side, then bringing it back around in a circle to the other side. Be sure to maintain your speed throughout the turn, as the boat will naturally slow down. Once the circle is complete, straighten your boat out so you are going the opposite direction from which you came. Tomorrow we’ll go over the protocol for when the skier goes down and cover some general safety tips.

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Essential Boating Supplies

When you neglect to bring extra gas and supplies with you on a road trip, the consequences are minimal—perhaps you’ll have to phone in for a tow truck or get a ride to the closest town. But when you forget to pack the proper supplies on a boat outing it can sometimes be difficult to garner immediate assistance. To avoid incident on the water, here are a few essential supplies to always keep on hand:

~First aid kit

~Emergency Radio

~Extra food and water

~Gasoline and outboard motor oil

~A set of tools

~Extra parts, such as prop fins and fasteners

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What is TC-W3 Certification?

Yesterday I suggested using TC-W3 certified oil, and you may be asking yourself what sets these oils apart. All outboard motor oils have certain specifications which you can use to gauge their effectiveness i.e. lubricity, viscosity and fluidity. And for most people, comparing the flash points of different oils isn’t too appealing, so it’s nice if you can someone else provide the comparative analysis for you. 

Each of the outboard motor oils inspected by the NMMA goes through independent testing to determine how it holds up in a range of conditions. After testing the oils on several engines from varying manufacturers, the NMMA takes the data and sees if the oil meets the minimum requirements for certification. As I said yesterday, TC-W3 is the gold standard in the industry; the only real difference between certified oils, such as Evinrude XD100 oil and Yamalube, is the additives the manufacturer uses.

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