Boating | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 16

Winterizing Your Boat: Part Three

After you’ve flushed the system, use a pickup hose to pump some antifreeze through the manifold. This will require you to gain access to the engine room, and while you’re there you’ll want to change the transmission fluid as well. Take out each of the spark plugs and spray some fogging oil into each cylinder. Finally, wipe down the entire engine with some fogging oil, WD-40 or other lubricant.

Stern drives have a tendency to pick up barnacles and aquatic flora during the season, so you’ll want to remove any of these growths from the lower unit. Drain all of the fluid from the gear case and be sure there isn’t any excess moisture in the two cycle oil, which is an indication that your seals are leaking. Thoroughly clean the lower unit with soap and water, apply grease to the system and check all of the necessary fuel levels.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part Two

The first step when preparing your boat for the frigid winter months is to find a suitable storage area. While leaving your boat in the water is an option, it isn’t advisable; the water will cause unnecessary wear and corrosion to the prop and the hull. The ideal location is in a covered, climate-controlled area. If you have extra space in your garage, you’re in luck; otherwise, you’ll want to invest in a storage space.

As with all maintenance, each manufacturer has their own specifications, so you’ll want to consult your owner’s manual to make sure you abide by their guidelines. For outboard engine owners, you’ll want to run the engine to warm it up and then change the Evinrude XD100 oil prior to putting the vessel in storage. This is also a good time to change the oil filters and flush the system with water. Whether you have a two- or a four-stroke, you’ll want to get rid of all of the excess fuel prior to storage, as it will go bad if it just sits in the tank for months.

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Winterizing Your Boat: Part One

Now that the summer boating season is winding down, it’s time to start thinking about putting your boat in storage for the fall and winter. You may assume that you can simply throw your boat on the trailer, put the cover on and let it sit for months on end. This may work for a season or two, but eventually this sort of neglect will begin to cause damage to your vessel.

It’s critical to take some time at the end of each season to make sure your boat is stowed properly. Not only will this improve its longevity, it will also make your job easier when it comes time to get it water-ready next spring. Over the next few days will go over the proper protocol for handling the cleaning, outboard motor oil removal and other crucial components of boat winterization.

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Boat Ownership: Part Five

Once you’ve made the decision to purchase a boat, you obviously want to protect your investment. We all recognize that the water and other elements provide a constant threat to our boat, which is why we invest in bumpers, covers and other protective gear. But what about boat theft?

It’s not the end of the world if someone swipes the Evinrude XD 100 out of the boat or grabs a stray life jacket, but full-blown boat theft is becoming increasingly common. Boats look like easy targets for criminals, especially when they’re just sitting there on a trailer. The easiest way to prevent theft is by locking your trailer at all times and keeping the keys on your person when you are moored at the dock. Also be sure to clearly label your boat, trailer and all of the removable equipment with your HIN and driver’s license number.

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Boat Ownership: Part Four

Every boat—at least the ones manufactured after 1972—comes with a distinct Hull Identification Number (HIN) which is etched onto the transom. The HIN, which is a series of 12 letters and numbers, gives your boat a unique identity that can be used in the event of theft or a manufacturer recall. Many states require a registration number, which is not the same the State Registration number.

The HIN format changed in 1984, so we’ll cover the most up-to-date criteria. The first three characters specify the manufacturer; the next five are the hull serial number; followed by the date of certification; and the final two numbers are the model year. It’s important to keep your HIN in a safe location so you have it in the event of an emergency. You should always have emergency products and information like life jackets and extra outboard motor oil.

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Boat Ownership: Part One

The decision to purchase a boat shouldn’t be taken lightly. Along with your home and automobile, it will undoubtedly be one of the biggest single purchases you ever make. And the initial investment in the boat is just the beginning; then there is insurance, licensing, gas, outboard motor oil and the routine upkeep to take care of.

Since there are so many factors to mull over, I thought we’d give a quick crash course on what to take into consideration when you are thinking about investing in your own vessel. Over the next couple of days, we’ll be covering everything from selecting your hull and motor type, to acquiring the proper licenses and certifications.

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The Anatomy of the Two-Stroke Engine: Part Four

When we left off yesterday, the piston had just bottomed out in the crankcase. Once this occurs, the momentum in the crankshaft will begin to drive the piston back towards the spark plug. As the process continues and more of the gas/air/outboard motor oil mixture is compressed, a vacuum is formed in the crankcase, which in turn opens the reed valve and sucks in more of the mixture from the carburetor.

At the end of the compression stroke, the spark plug fires again and the cycle is repeated. The two-stroke engine derives its name from the fact that only two strokes—the combustion and compression—are required to complete a full cycle. As you’ve probably ascertained, the four-stroke engine has four strokes: intake, compression, combustion and exhaust.

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The Anatomy of the Two-Stroke Engine: Part One

Four-stroke engines are ubiquitous in automobile manufacturing and while you may consider the two-stroke engine an antiquated instrument, it still has myriad uses. From yard tools and dirt bikes to RC toys and outboard motors, the two-stroke engine is still utilized in many smaller vehicles and implements. Before we start to overview the inner workings of the two-stroke engine, let’s highlight a few of its main advantages over its four-stroke counterpart:

~Simple construction: the absence of valves lowers the unit’s weight and minimizes the opportunity for breakdowns.

~More power: since two-stroke engines for every revolution, as opposed to every other revolution, they can generate more power than a four-stroke engine.

~Work in any direction: if you try to operate a four-stroke engine upside-down or sideways, you may encounter problems with oil flow. The gasoline and outboard motor oil are combined in a two-stroke engine, eliminating this problem.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Five

We still have at least of few weeks of boating season left, but I figured it was important to discuss how to winterize and prepare your outboard motor for storage. It’s essential to take the proper precautions when  to ensure it starts up easily next spring. Before your last outing of the season, add some fuel conditioner to your mix of fuel and Evinrude XD 100 oil.

Always drain the system of all the gas and oil before putting the boat into storage, as the fuel will go bad if it just sits for months. If your lower unit calls for periodic lubrication changes, this is the time to do it. Look over the entire motor to ensure all of the bolts and fittings are in place and taut. Finally, put the motor in a dry place and keep it well covered, as small animals love to nest up in the crevices during the winter.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Four

One of the most perilous times for your boat is the transfer from dry land to the water. This often involves a lengthy drive and being in reverse when the end of your trailer is over 20 feet away. Particularly when you’re backing your boat, the motor is extremely susceptible, so it’s imperative to take some precautionary measures to make sure your boat makes it into the water in one piece.

First, always make sure your vessel is topped off with fuel and outboard motor oil before you reach the marina. When backing the boat towards the water, always have a spotter outside the boat to guide you. If you are unfamiliar with launching your boat, it’s a good idea to take some dry runs in the driveway before you try the real thing. Use your mirrors as you are reversing, moving the steering wheel in the direction you want the back to go.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Three

Yesterday we went over some basic post-outing maintenance, which is essential to keep your engine running smoothly on a day-to-day basis. But for longevity, you’ll want to also go through a more extensive maintenance routine periodically. I do this routine about once a month during the season and when putting my boat in and taking it out of storage.

First, check the fuel and Yamaha 2M oil in the tank to ensure there isn’t any water in it; actually, I do this before and after each outing. Inspect the fuel line for any cracks or signs of wear and corrosion. The fuel primer bulb obviously should not have any cracks, and it should also feel pliable. Examine the fuel tank for damage and ensure the tank vent is aspirating properly.

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Basic Outboard Maintenance: Part Two

Immediately following every outing you should run through a short checklist to ensure your motor wasn’t damaged and will be ready for your next outing. The first line of business is to flush the engine. For this you’ll need a set of rabbit ears, which is a pair of rubber hoses connected by a metal clamp. The apparatus slips on to the lower unit where you can attach the garden hose.

When you’re flushing the engine, ensure that the water flowing through the system isn’t hot. If the water is hot or the flow is weak, it’s an indication that some debris is blocking the system. You can easily remove the blockage by inserting a small piece of wire into the flow tube. Once the engine has been flushed, spray down everything with some lubricant. Finish by topping off your tank with a mixture of fuel and Evinrude XD100.

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