2 Stroke Oil | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 11

Two-Stroke Engine Basics: Part Four

lawnmowerNow that we have overviewed the inner workings of a two-stroke engine, the advantages should be ascertainable. The consolidation of the stroke cycle allows for a more rudimentary and lightweight design, which also produces more power. This combination makes two-stroke engines ideal for various handheld equipment and small vehicles. With these obvious advantages, some may be wondering why two-stroke engines aren’t used in cars and other large vehicles.

The main drawback to the two-stroke is its longevity; the fact that the outboard motor oil and gasoline are mixed means that there is less direct lubrication, and the system wears faster. Because of this necessity to mix the gas and oil, the engine burns more of these fluids than there four-stroke counterpart—which is a major drawback in a vehicle that experiences extended usage. Finally, there is also more pollution emitted from a two-stroke due to the nature of its compression cycle.

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Two-Stroke Engine Basics: Part Three

yamalubeYesterday we overviewed the main process that takes place in the cycle of a two-stroke engine. Now we are going to breakdown this process a little further to better understand what is occurring in this process. When the piston is working in its cycle, the crankshaft will give the piston momentum so that it can return to the spark plug for the compression stroke. During this process the piston compresses the mixture of Yamalube oil, fuel and air to create a vacuum, which in turn opens the reed valve and draws in more of this mixture from the carburetor.

Once the cycle is completed, the piston will fire again and repeat the process. The fact that there are two strokes—the compression and the combustion—is how the engine gets its name. Because the piston accomplishes so many tasks, the two-stroke engine so lightweight and versatile. Tomorrow we will review some of the major pros and cons of the two-stroke engine.

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Two-Stroke Engine Basics: Part Two

Two-Stroke EngineYesterday we overviewed some of the basics differences between four and two-stroke motors. Today we will go over some of the mechanical operations of the engine. A two-stroke engine is essentially a simplified version of the four-stroke, and this means that the cycle is more economical and many of the operations are consolidated. As we said previously, one of the biggest differences is that the spark plug fires once every revolution, as opposed to every other revolution.

The design of a two-stroke engine is designated as a “cross flow” and starts with the firing of the spark plug. The fuel and Evinrude XD100 mixture is combined with air and compressed. When the spark plug fires, it ignites that concoction and drives the piston of the engine. Once the piston hits its down stroke, the exhaust port is covered and the pressure drives the exhaust gases out. After the piston bottoms out, the intake port is covered and the mixture rushes into the cylinder, allowing the remaining exhaust gases to escape and fresh fuel to enter.

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Two-Stroke Engine Basics: Part One

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There are three basic types of engines that are used in motor vehicles: gasoline; diesel and two-stroke. While the first two types are typically found in automobiles and other high-power vehicles, two-stroke engine are ideal for smaller crafts such as outboard motor boats, ATVs and snowmobiles. Gasoline and diesel engines use several of the same principles in their design and operation, but the two-stroke engine has some discernable differences:

~Two-stroke engines have no valves, which makes their construction more simple and lightweight

~Four-stroke engines fire every other cycle while two-strokes fire every revolution, giving them more power

~Since the outboard motor oil is mixed with the fuel, two-stroke engines will work in any orientation, which is important for handheld equipment

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Maintaining your outboard motor.

outboard-motor-2Most outboard motors will run fine for years with little or no attention. If you notice that your outboard motor is running at a slow speed or idle problem then you should consider getting a major tune which includes:

Removing cylinder heads to de-carbon pistons and heads
Remove and rebuild carburetors
Replace plugs
Replace thermostat(s) and water pump
Re-torque cover bolts, etc.
Check and/or reset all adjustments
Change and/or re-lube as needed

Make sure that you are using a good boat motor oil like the Yamaha 2s oil which helps to protect the life of the motor.

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Want an ATV?

atvIt has been about 30 years since the first ATV was introduced to the market, and since then they have become more and more popular every year. Just what is the appeal of these three and four wheel machines, could it be just the excitement that riding them creates? Nowadays you will find entire families enjoying the excitement and riding as a family activity. But there is always down sides to things, and riding ATVs is no different. Many accidents happen each year to people riding ATVs, keeping a few things in mind and following some simple safety procedures could keep you in the safe zone at all times.

One of the first rules that you will want to follow is as a new rider, always head out to the trails with an experienced rider, in fact even an experienced rider should always have a partner with them. If at all possible before you buy your own ATV rent one or use a friends to see if this is something that you are really going to like. Once you determine that you enjoy the hobby, then start recording what type of riding you like to do and what trails you will be frequenting the most.

It is usually recommended that beginners not go off and buy a new ATV, rather become familiar with the sport first, try out some different style machines such as utility ATV’s or Sport ATV’s and determine what feels most comfortable to you. After you get your first machine it is always advisable to take a safety course. You can find ATV safety courses that will meet once a week for a couple of hours that is spread out three or four weeks. Not only will they review basic safety precautions, but you will also learn fundamental maintenance for your vehicle, like how to change the Yamalube 2S oil. This is not mandatory, but I believe is well worth your time and money.

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The Steady Evolution of Snowmobiles

yamaha-2s-oilThe first snowmobile-esque vehicle to be manufactured was intended for military and police transportation. In the mid to late ’50s, Bombardier created a rudimentary snow track machine capable of holding up to a dozen people. Needless to say, this machine bore little resemblance to the sleek, sporty recreational sleds of today. Bombardier released a more compact snowmobile in 1959; for the first time, such a machine was meant for public use.

It didn’t take long for Bombardier’s rivals to begin introducing rival sleds, and this influx of competition brought about plenty of technological innovation. The designs of early snowmobiles left plenty to be desired. They were underpowered to begin with, and their frames were the opposite of aerodynamic. High-performance 2 stroke engines were released as snowmobiles gained widespread popularity.

These 2 strokes, both then and now, were kept performing at peak condition with the help of Yamaha 2s oil. In recent years, the Environmental Protection Agency has cracked down on high-emissions vehicles. Rigid environmental guidelines forced some companies to make a switch to 4 stroke engines while other manufacturers found ways to improve efficiency of their existing 2 stroke formula.

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Snowmobiles Explained: Environmental Issues

snowmobile2In the past few days our discussion of snowmobiles has run the gamut from power systems to track mechanics and steering. Today, it’s time to take a step back from the nuts and bolts to see the forest for the trees. Just what are the environmental implications of recreational sleds, and what plans are in the works to increase engine efficiency? Unlike the environmental effects of automobiles and boats, those of snowmobiles remain understudied and to some extent uncertain.

The history of snowmobile engines reflects that of outboard motors in one key way. As recently as a few decades ago, both were being manufactured with little regard for their environmental impact. The amount and content of exhaust emitted by the engines was eventually deemed unacceptable, and the rise of four-stroke engines challenged two-stroke manufacturers like Yamaha to step up their game.

Today’s snowmobiles feature reduced emissions and increased engine efficiency. Where once speed and maneuverability were a sled’s main selling points, eco-friendliness has now joined the list. Modern-day snowmobiles run best on specially formulated 2 stroke oil. Snowmobile manufacturers continue to struggle with noise pollution concerns, however. Many sled makers have taken concerted steps to reduce noise levels.

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Snowmobile Maintenance IV: Carburetor Cleaning

snowmobile1Over the last few days, we’ve discussed the ins and outs of a seasonal snowmobile tune-up – from salvaging the upholstery to checking for exterior scratches and ensuring proper fluid levels. In today’s final installment, we’ll shift over to one of the most common causes of engine failure: the filthy carburetor. It doesn’t take much more than regular hand tools, a can of carb cleaner, some ingenuity and a willingness to get your hands dirty.

For those who don’t already know, the carburetor is the device charged with mixing air and fuel in an internal combustion engine. Commence the cleaning process by crimping fuel lines to prevent any leakage while you work. Remove any throttle cables that might get in your way, as well as the fuel lines. Loosen and remove the carburetor, then inspect it for residue.

If residue is found to be blocking the two main jets in the main carb body, place the carburetor in a bath of car cleaner. It should then be blown dry and inspected once more. Reverse the procedure to reinstall the carburetor. That’s it! Before hitting the trail, it’s never a bad idea to top off your snowmobile with Yamalube 2s oil. Happy sledding, and remember to drive safe.

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Snowmobile Tune-up II: Visual Inspection

gettingairToday we pick up right where we left off in our preseason snowmobile maintenance process: the visual inspection. Having checked for cracks in the hood, we now turn our attention to the upholstery. Seat covers may become nicked and scratched with use, and in some cases they might slip right off the mounting. These details might seem trivial or superficial, and it’s true that your snow machine can operate no matter the state of the seating. Now is a good time to shore up any aesthetic flaws, however. Try gluing a similar fabric underneath hole in the leather or synthetic seating.

Now it’s time to get a look at the underbody of your snowmobile – specifically, the track and the rear suspension. Check for bent or broken suspension parts and ensure that the sliders haven’t deteriorated. When inspecting the track, think about it the same way you would the tires on a car. The slightest sign of wear is more than enough evidence in favor of replacement. Driving with a worn track is basically tempting fate; you could end up walking several miles back to civilization through deep snow.

Tip the sled onto its side to get a glance at the skis and runners. Again, you simply have to check these parts for serious signs of wear. Steel skis should last you many years provided they aren’t bent or allowed to corrode. Plastic skis could be cut or otherwise impacted rather easily, so check them with added prejudice. If you haven’t already done so, top off the engine with Yamalube 2s oil. Tomorrow we’ll go under the hood!

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Preseason Snowmobile Maintenance, Part I

snowmobileNow that November’s icy chill has replaced any thoughts of summertime fun, many outdoors enthusiasts are putting their boats away for winter. We’ve discussed proper winterization techniques in the past, but now it’s time to focus on an equally invigorating recreational pastime: snowmobiling. No matter your preferred outdoor pursuit, it’s important to conduct a preseason checkup.

By ensuring that your sled is ready and equipped for snowmobile season, you can save yourself constant trips to the repair shop. Over the next few days, we’ll investigate the most common problems that afflict snowmobiles in the offseason and attempt to diagnose a solution. The first step might seem brutally obvious – your snow machine has probably been lurking in a far corner of the garage, so you’ll have to remove the sizable layer of dust that’s settled on top of it.

Either take your snowmobile to a local carwash or do the work yourself with a garden hose, a sponge and a bucket of sudsy water. Once it’s clean, you’re ready to begin inspecting the outer areas of the sled, beginning with the hood. Be on the lookout for any signs of serious wear or neglect – cracks in the outer body, deteriorating hood latches, decals peeling off, etc. In tomorrow’s update, we’ll continue with the visual inspection and eventually go under the hood to replenish the old supply of Yamaha 2s oil.

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Attaching an Outboard to Your Boat

installingboat

For the better part of the last week, we’ve been focusing on ways boaters can save money without reducing the precious time they get to spend cruising inland lakes, rivers and larger bodies of water. One of the best ways to cut costs is to find a solid, reliable outboard engine on the used market. After you’ve evaluated its structural integrity – and ensured that it’s suitable for use with TC-W3 2 stroke oil – it’s time to install the motor.

Consult the capacity plate on your boat to find out how much engine power the craft can handle. The shaft length of the engine should also match up with the boat’s transom height. Now it’s time to mount the outboard on the center of the transom; if it’s off-balance, you’ll encounter significant steering problems. Position the propeller so that it’s neither too low nor too high. If the propeller shaft juts too far out of the water, it will start to ventilate and wobble.

Beyond simply attaching an outboard motor to the transom, you’ll have to deal with wiring and instrumentation issues. Every marine engine features unique wiring quirks, and you may want to hire a professional for this part of the job. As far as instrumentation goes, you’ll need to choose between analog and digital. Analog relies on many independent wires to run each gauge while digital functions through the boat’s computer.

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