2 Cycle Oil | Outboard Motor Oil - Part 17

Basic Boat Trailering: Part Two

The first time you back your boat into the water it can certainly be daunting; I mean, it’s not everyday your supposed to back your vehicle towards a body of water. When you’re launching your boat, your trailer will obviously have to be submerged in the water. For some reason—unbeknownst to me—various trailer lights aren’t waterproof, which can lead to short-circuiting when they get wet. As such, always opt for the waterproof option.

If it’s your first time launching your boat (and even if you’ve done it hundreds of times), it’s a good idea to have someone get out and help guide you into the water. It doesn’t matter if the tires of the trailer get in the water, but you’ll want to avoid submerging the wheel hubs, which can lead to rust and corrosion. Once the boat can float, undo all of the ties and cables attaching it to the trailer and secure it to the dock. That probably seemed easy, so tomorrow we’ll go over the more difficult task: getting the boat back on the trailer.  Make sure you have all your essentials in the boat, life jackets, drinking water, cell phone and extra outboard motor oil.

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Basic Boat Trailering: Part One

Having a permanent docking location for your vessel is an enormous convenience, but most recreational boaters aren’t fortunate enough to have a spot in the water for their boat. Instead, we are forced to launch our boat every time we want to use it and allocate storage space for the watercraft and trailer on dry land. And while it may be wearisome to constantly have to pull your boat in and out of the water, trailiering your vessel does have its distinct advantages.

First, you don’t have to worry about other boaters’ negligence when docking, mooring or transporting supplies around the dock. Constant exposure to the water and the elements can corrode the exterior of your boat and the metal components, as well as the paint on the hull. When your boat is on the trailer, it’s also easier to change the Evinrude XD 100 and perform other routine maintenance. Over the next few days we’ll cover some of the basic procedures for launching and , including some tips to preserve your craft while it’s in storage.

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How to Change Outboard Motor Oil

While the two-stroke engine has fallen out of favor, it does boast one distinct advantage over its four-stroke successor: you don’t have to change the outboard motor oil. Sure, you have to mix the oil with gasoline consistently, but changing your oil can be a hassle. And if you neglect to do it, you can cause serious damage to your engine. You don’t have to worry if you have a four-stroke, however; changing your outboard motor oil is simple:

~Take the boat out of the water and put it on a trailer
~Remove the engine cover
~Check the oil using the dipstick in the crankcase
~Use the trim button to raise the motor, allowing the oil to drain out from the crankcase easily
~Drain the oil into an empty container. Take out the drain plug to allow all the oil to draw off.
~Replace the drain plug and refill the oil until it reaches the full level

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What to Do When Your Engine Overheats: Part Three

If you have adequate water flow into the strainer and can’t find any obstruction, chances are the problem is something more serious. Unfasten the clamps and remove the hose going into the water pump. Look in the seacock to ensure proper water flow: if water isn’t flowing, it’s an indication that you have a clog somewhere in the hose; if not, you’ll have to dig deeper.

Remove the face from the water pump and inspect the impeller; the fins should be pliable and not show any signs of wear. In addition to extra fuel and Evinrude XD50 oil, you should carry a spare set of fins with you in just in case this scenario occurs. If your fins are in good shape, all signs point to a broken water pump. This is obviously the worst-case scenario, but all is not lost. To get back to shore, remove one of the other electric pumps from the system and use it to connect the raw water intake to the cooling system, effectively circumventing the intake pump.

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Preventative Outboard Motor Care: Part One

Now that the sun is shining and the days are long, taking time to care for your engine is probably not high on your priority list. And why should it bet; the summer is the time to go out and enjoy your vessel, not spend hours in the garage tuning your engine. However, if you neglect to care for your outboard motor, your time on the water could be fraught with disaster. Personally, I like to do my maintenance in the winter to maximize my boating time when the weather is fair.

From overheating and spent spark plugs to corrosion and rusting, a litany of mechanical problems can plague your motor. Luckily, preventing damage to your outboard motor is relatively simple and won’t take hours on end. You obviously want to change your outboard motor oil regularly, but this is only one of the necessary maintenance procedures. Over the next couple of days, we’ll overview a simple maintenance routine to help keep your engine up and running.

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Marine Spring Cleaning: Part Three

The engine is unequivocally the most important component of your boat, and as such, it requires a thorough examination. We’ll begin with inboard engines, as the process is more in-depth. Start by changing the bulk motor oil and both the fuel and oil filters. Also ensure that the coolant and transmission fluid are topped off. Even if you’ve just replenished all of your engine fluids, always keep extra onboard. Finish by inspecting the entire system for cracks, rust, blockage and any other signs of corrosion.

Maintenance for outboard motors is more straightforward. Replace the spark plugs and check the wiring for any damage. Lubricate all of the moveable engine components and make certain the gear lube is adequate. When you are finished working on the engine, ensure that the fuel shutoff valve and hoses are intact. Now that you have inspected your boat and done some basic maintenance, you’re ready to hit the water.

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Boating Safety: Part Three

As most people know, a life jacket is the most crucial piece of safety equipment on your boat. Before you leave the dock, be sure that you have a life jacket for every person on board and that it fits correctly. Although many states don’t require adults to wear a life jacket, it’s always smart to err on the side of safety.

In addition to a life jacket, every boater should have a supply of spare parts and tools. This cache should include a basic tools kit and miscellaneous parts for performing routine maintenance on the water, if need be. Always keep an extra supply of gasoline and two cycle outboard oil on hand as well. Even if you never have a need for it, chances are you will eventually encounter an unprepared boater who will appreciate your foresight.

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Boat Engine Maintenance and Troubleshooting: Part Three

As the heart of the boat, the engine should be near the top of your maintenance hierarchy. Changing your 2 cycle oil is obviously crucial, but it’s not enough. Most marine engine damage stems from neglect of the cooling system. Since marine engines use the water they are in as a cooing agent, the contaminants in the water also flow through the cooling system.

The water filters are the most important component to maintain in the cooling system. Opt for the premium models with metal strainers instead of plastic. Maintenance of the cooling system is particularly significant if you are boating in salt water. If this is the case, check regularly for rust around the gaskets, which is an indication that salt water is leaking out of the system.

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TC-W3 Certification: The Testing

The National Marin Manufacturers Association (NMMA) is the organization holding the trademark for TC-W3 and is responsible for all of the analysis. Each 2 cycle oil is put through a rigorous series of tests to ensure that it meets the highest lubrication standards under a range of conditions. A bench test is a trial conducted in a laboratory prior to a product being made available to the public.

To receive TC-W3 certification, every two-cycle oil must pass several bench tests, which include checks for viscosity, lubricity and fluidity, among others. Ring sticking and carbon buildup on the pistons are both checked for as well. Tomorrow we will look at the various engines that are used to test the oils and take a closer look at what it takes for an oil to be approved.

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Jetting Your Carburetor: Part Three

Just as the main jet controls the flow of fuel and bulk motor oil when the throttle is open, the needle and needle jet take over when the throttle is anywhere from one-eighth to three-quarters open. Since your engine is operating in this range the majority of the time, this carb circuit generally gets the most use. When making adjustments, the needle itself rarely needs any tuning.

As the throttle opens, the needle is pulled up. This allows an increased flow of fuel and oil. If need be, you can make minor adjustments using the clip that is on the needle; raising the clip will make the mixture leaner, and vice-versa. Tomorrow we will go over the final circuit of the carburetor, the pilot jet and pilot screw.

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Outboard Motor Anatomy: Part Three

Now that we have gone over the two cycle oil and gasoline specifications, as well as the benefits of the outboard motor, it is time to determine which model is right for you. The motor that you choose will be largely dependent on the hull of the craft that you plan to attach it to. Every boat built in the US has a “Guard Rating Plate”; this shows the maximum horsepower for the motor, but you should also be sure never to go below 75 percent of this number.

The other main spec to take into consideration is the shaft length. On outboard motors, this measurement is customized to fit 15, 20 or 25-inch transoms (the stern of the watercraft). When the shaft length is too long, there will be drag, while if the shaft is too short, it could lead to ventilation or potentially the overheating of the engine.

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Snowmobile Storage: Part Two

The first thing to do when storing your sled is to wash and wax every inch. While this may seem like an unnecessary and purely aesthetic routine, this will help protect the paint job and the body of the vehicle. Once this is done, give the sled a quick onceover to find any chips or cracks, and it is advisable to paint the ski bottoms as well.

Now that the body is done, it is time to move on to the engine. Start up your snowmobile and pull on the oil pump cable to allow your 2 cycle oil to circulate through the entire system. Next, you want to fill the fuel tank completely, which will eliminate air space in the tank and ensure that condensation can’t form.

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